The finishing touch is that this is a small town that has been carved by time. The cultural context that has been passed down for thousands of years has imprinted its connotation and confidence here. The green Yushan Mountain, the vast Shanghu Lake, the simple dishes, and the out-of-this-world of tea...
(The author is specially provided for China Travel. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission)
This is a small town that needs to be read slowly. There are mountains in the city and mountains below. The lake, the contrast between the lakes and the mountains outlines the charm of the south of the Yangtze River, allowing people who have lived here for generations to be in harmony with nature; this is a small town carved by time, where the cultural context passed down for thousands of years imprints the connotation of confidence, and the green Yu Mountains, vast lakes, simple dishes, exceptional tea...this is Changshu.
My trip to Changshu officially began when I set foot on the Yushan Ecological Trail. "One city with mountains and rivers, a comfortable life", Changshu Yushan Cultural Tourism Resort is an elegant place with elegant roots and a leisurely atmosphere. You can see the peonies of Shanghu Lake in spring, pick Baoyan bayberry in summer, appreciate the red maples of Yushan Mountain in autumn, and listen to the bells of ancient temples in winter. It’s the “Song of the Four Seasons” here. It is now the end of spring and the beginning of summer, with trees and greenery everywhere. Maps and signs of tourist attractions can be seen on the intersections and streets from time to time. This makes me, a newcomer here, feel confident in this already sultry season. A touch of coolness.
Yushan is named after Yu Zhong, the founder of Wu culture, was buried here. "The seven streams all lead to the sea, and half of the ten miles of green hills enter the city." The green hills that enter the city are Yushan. Yushan is shaped like a snail, and the ancient city wall extending into the city in the east is built on the mountain. From the top of the city, you can have a panoramic view of the green mountains, green waters, and alleys of the ancient city.
Shanghu Lake and Yushan Mountain depend on each other. It is said that "when Jiang Taigong fishes, those who wish to take the bait" - Shanghu Lake is named after Jiang Shang lived in seclusion here to fish. The mountains and waters of Shanghu complement each other, making it gentle and pleasant, creating a charming Jiangnan charm. The hundreds of acres of pond cedar forest in the lake, known as the "water forest", is a paradise for thousands of herons to inhabit.
The golf course on the shore of Shanghu Lake is surrounded by mountains and rivers, integrating the mountains, rivers and lakes. The fairways are lined with trees and are well-proportioned. Rabbits and birds are hopping among the trees and grass, and the lake and mountains are full of scenery between the swings. Close your eyes.
Changshu was called Qinchuan in ancient times. The ancient city integrated mountains, water, and city into one. The poem says: "The fragrance of the seven streams flows through the country, and the greenery in the middle of the mountain comes into the city." The ancient river in the city runs through the north and south, and the small bridges and flowing water move forward. It can be seen that shops and houses are built along the river, and the elegant gardens and deep lanes are fascinating. The water of Qinchuan River is clear and quiet. The houses along the river have white walls and black tiles, and there are long corridors and pavilions. It is a picture of Jiangnan water town style.
People say that Suzhou gardens are the best in the world. The ancient city of Changshu, with its profound cultural heritage, inherits the elegance of Suzhou gardens. Classical gardens such as Zeng Garden, Zhao Garden and Yan Garden are dotted among the city’s landscape. They can be called the masterpieces of ancient architecture. masterpiece. Zeng Garden, formerly known as Xukuo Garden, commonly known as Zeng Family Garden, is the former residence of Zeng Pu, a famous novelist, French translator and author of "Niehaihua" in the late Qing Dynasty. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Zeng Pu's father camped as his home on some of the ruins of the "Xiaowangchuan" garden during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, more than 120 years ago. Zeng Garden is surrounded by mountains and rivers, with a clear and bright environment. It has always been known as "half city, half wilderness, half mountain and half water".
Zhao Garden is adjacent to Zeng Garden and is also part of the ruins of the "Xiaowangchuan" garden. It was originally a private garden. During the Tongzhi and Guangxu years of the Qing Dynasty, Changzhou native Zhao Liewen built a large-scale garden after acquiring it, and it was called "Zhao Garden". "Garden", "Zhao Wu Garden", "Zhao Hu Garden". During the Republic of China, Zhao Garden was purchased by Sheng Xuanhuai from Changzhou and became the lower courtyard of Tianning Temple in Changzhou, named "Tranquility Lotus Society". Zhao Garden is famous for its water features. The scenic spots are all structured around the pool. They are scattered and well arranged. It is a typical Soviet-style garden architecture. Now, in order to facilitate tourists to visit, Zeng Garden and Zhao Garden, which are separated by a wall, have been opened up and merged into Zeng Zhao Garden.
This is an elegant garden, Yan Garden, also known as "Jiang Garden", built by Jiang Yuanshu, the prefect of Taiwan during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty.
The garden is not very big, but the buildings inside are exquisite and elegant, with sparse flowers and trees, and different scenery as you walk, typical of Jiangnan gardens. The most beautiful scenery in the courtyard is "Yan Valley", which is a rockery made of yellow stones from Yushan Mountain. It is said to be the work of Ge Yuliang, a famous mountain master in the Qing Dynasty. It is one of the only two remaining masterpieces of rock piles handed down by Ge Yuliang.
The Yiqing Garden at the east entrance of Yushan Park, built against the mountain under the Yushan City Wall, is a miniature garden with exquisite structure, small and beautiful shape. Yiqing Garden was designed by Professor Sima Quan of Architecture from Tongji University in Shanghai. It is surrounded by green walls and black tiles and is surrounded by Yiqing Tower, Wancui Pavilion, Guifei Pavilion, rockery, ancient trees and other scenery. It is extremely elegant to sit in a pavilion and invite a few friends to drink tea to soothe your mind. Or take a look at the academies on both sides of the bank in the century-old building of the Yixiu Garden Huancui Xiaozhu with towering ancient and famous trees in the park. There are also treasures of precious stones from the Yuan and Ming dynasties here.
The seven streams all lead to the sea, and half of the ten miles of green mountains enter the city; the meditation room leads to winding paths, and the square tower is surrounded by the sun. Changshu, a famous national historical and cultural city, has a profound cultural heritage and numerous cultural celebrities...
Changshu was called "Qinchuan" in ancient times because there are seven parallel rivers running from south to north in the ancient city, just like the seven parts of the guqin. There are also Yushan Qin School founded by Yan Tianchi in the Ming Dynasty, so you must listen to a piece of Guqin when you go to Changshu. Zhu Xi, the national representative inheritor of Guqin art (Yushan Qin School), inherited the Yushan School's tradition of "pure, subtle, far-reaching, broad and peaceful". His musical style is natural, with both the style of the Wei and Jin Dynasties and the artistic conception of Song poetry, and his unrestrained emotion. Really, the varied performance has brought Yushan Qin style to a new level and is well-known in today's Qin world.
Ocher is a natural mineral pigment and one of the main pigments in Chinese paintings. Ocher from Yushan has a fine texture and rich color, making it an ideal pigment for traditional Chinese painting. Painters of all dynasties regard Yushan ocher as a precious pigment, and many people use it to make inkstones. For example, the painter Huang Gongwang of the Yuan Dynasty was born in Changshu and grew up in Changshu. He has conducted in-depth research on Yushan ocher. Yushan ocher also made Huang Gongwang his master. Brilliant life. The "Liu Jia of the Qing Dynasty", Wu Changshuo and others all cherish Yushan ocher inkstones.
Zong Hongxing, the representative inheritor of Changshu City’s intangible cultural heritage, adheres to his family tradition and produces Yushan ocher inkstones, which combine pigments and handicrafts and are deeply loved by painters.
Changshu lace, also known as Changshu carved embroidery, has a history of more than 70 years and is one of the famous hand-carved and embroidered drawn yarn products in my country. Changshu lace uses cotton, linen, chemical fiber and other fabrics as raw materials, uses embroidery needles, has more than 60 stitches, and uses carving embroidery, appliqué embroidery, drawstring embroidery, shadow needle embroidery, inlay embroidery and other crafts and techniques. Changshu lace was once a star product of foreign trade. It is exquisitely crafted, colorful, elegant and generous, with a wide variety of designs and colors. It is both a daily necessities and an artistic decoration. It was my great honor to meet and witness the representative inheritor of Changshu City’s intangible cultural heritage, Mr. Xie Yanyue, demonstrate his lace skills in Yanyuan.
Cheongsam, the traditional clothing of Chinese women, is known as the quintessence of China and the national dress of women. Only cheongsam can interpret the elegance and charm of oriental women. Changshu Fengxi Cultural and Art Center, located on Water Street in Shanghu Scenic Area, takes cheongsam as its starting point and integrates "cultural roots, creative exploration, and participation in experience". It takes physical and mental interaction and in-depth physical travel as its main creative ideas, along with the local traditional culture cheongsam. The context of production has given rise to tea art, incense, illustrations and other related tourism formats and cultural products. At the Fengxi Cultural and Art Center, learn about cheongsam culture in the museum, or simply have a hand-made experience, then make a cup of tea and chat with friends, the slow time in Jiangnan will pass quietly.
If you choose a city to live in peace, you will live forever; if you find a mountain, you will grow old and open a shop to survive the drought. In Changshu, Qixi Water is a petty bourgeoisie store that mainly sells coffee, tea, desserts, and also provides some books. As the saying goes, a city with mountains and rivers can lead a comfortable life! Changshu people like to relax and go to the lake or the mountains, so the water of Qixi River and Yushan Mountain are combined to create a place to relax the soul.
Qixixishui Xicheng Pavilion Store, also known as Dashi Shanfang, is located halfway up the mountain in the Xicheng Pavilion Scenic Area of ??Yushan Mountain. It has pavilions and pavilions, surrounded by green trees, and has beautiful scenery. Coming here in search of the sound of the piano, sipping a cup of tea and reading half a book is indeed a half-day of leisure. The proprietress Shi Bilan said that she hoped to "open a warm store and warm this mountain", and she did it.
Changshu is a city with a slow life. It is leisurely to visit teahouses, stroll around the old town, and explore the lives of the locals. The feeling of drinking tea in an old house hidden in an alley is difficult to find in big cities. The "Nansu Academy Cultural and Creative Space" hidden in Lingtangyan at the foot of Yushan Mountain is such a place. The quaint courtyard is filled with small bridges, flowing water, and lush flowers and plants. It is not only a good place to drink tea, but also often organizes various cultural and artistic exchange activities, salon gatherings, and tea party sharing, providing conference affairs, cultural creation, space planning and design, We provide cultural and creative services such as video culture shooting to create a cultural and creative brand and humanistic living room belonging to Changshu. There is also a hospitable cat who will reluctantly see guests out the door when they leave.
After traveling through thousands of mountains and rivers, peace of mind is your home. This place is not far from home, and it is enough to calm down and settle down. There is always a cup of tea left for you at Nansu Academy.
In fact, a day in Changshu starts with a bowl of mushroom oil noodles. Mushrooms are a type of fungi. According to "Wu Fungus Genealogy", "Those that come from trees are called mushrooms, and those that grow from the ground are called fungi." Mushroom oil comes from wild fungi on Yushan Mountain and can only be eaten locally in Changshu. “Enter the ancient temple in the early morning, the first sun shines on the high forest...” Mushroom oil noodles originated from the kitchen of Kofukuji Temple. The old noodle shop called "Wangyue Tower" came out of the temple. In the early morning, the Wangyuelou forest was bustling with people. I found an empty seat and sat down for a while. The noodles arrived, mixed with the unique aroma of wild mushrooms. It was accompanied by meat and fish steaks, toon, bamboo shoots and other side dishes, and a big bowl of noodles. Just wipe it all away, drink a cup of green tea, and feel comfortable!
Located in the land of plenty, Changshu is rich in food ingredients. The food pays attention to seasonal and nutritious food. Various dishes and snacks are unique in selecting materials, processing and even plating. The food culture is wonderful. For example, the restaurant called "9019 Jiuling Yijiu", in addition to Changshu local dishes, also has many creative dishes, such as Huadiao drunk crab, Xuyi crayfish, steamed tiger spot, hand-caught tea-flavored black pork chop, and ecological shrimp cakes Lychee and shrimp balls; and "Wangyu Terrace" located on the Fushui embankment of Shanghu Lake, with a beautiful view of the lake and mountains, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery among the green mountains and green waters, and taste special lake-fresh delicacies, such as taro braised pork, smoked fish, and sweet and sour short ribs. , lobster and chicken head rice, extremely comfortable. In addition to these specialty restaurants, many of the farmhouses in Changshu are surrounded by mountains and rivers with beautiful scenery, such as the "Qingfeng Xiaoyuan" that is accessible through the tea gardens and healthy trails in the bamboo forest. Here you can eat sweet-scented osmanthus, duck blood glutinous rice, crispy snacks Fish, wild mountain bamboo shoots noodles, braised flower duck and other delicacies. After the meal, there is a piece of loquat at the right time, happiness!
Roaming around Shang Lake in Yushan Mountain, wandering in nature, staying in inns and B&Bs in the mountains or in the city, you can even experience the gentleness of the ancient city in the south of the Yangtze River... For example, it is located at the foot of Yushan Mountain, with Wu culture as the background "Yueshanxuan" is a boutique hotel with the theme of Yushan culture and a Chinese Dongfeng cultural temperament. There is also a small Su-style garden in the hotel, highlighting the beauty of Jiangnan classical gardens; and the well-equipped ecological resort "Yueshanxuan" Baowu Shanghu Village is located on the bank of Shanghu Lake. It has lush vegetation, is beautiful and elegant, and has complete cultural and sports facilities. It is an excellent place for family leisure, friend gatherings and other small activities; if you like homestays, there are old buildings in an alley in the center of the city. The renovated boutique B&B named "Sunset Linxi" not only has a home-like feel, but also allows you to fully experience the local humanistic life in Changshu. It is extremely comfortable to sit on the outdoor platform upstairs to eat tea and drink wine with the fragrance of flowers.
Changshu is like a thick book that needs to be read slowly. It is difficult to appreciate its charm in a short glance, and different people will have different interpretations. If you are destined, you will definitely Will come again for a closer look.
(Zhang Chunhua)