Aiwowo, a traditional snack in Beijing, is served in snack bars in Beijing around the Lunar New Year every year until late summer and early autumn, so Aiwowo is also a spring and autumn variety, and now it is available all year round.
Love for Wo Wo has a long history. Liu Ruoyu, an internal supervisor during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, said in the Proceedings: "Taking sesame and glutinous rice as a cold cake and Dan pills as a nest, that is, the ancient' not falling clip'."
But why did it become a love nest? I found an explanation in Li Guangting's book "Village Proverbs Explain Yi" in Qing Dynasty. Because an emperor loves this kind of nest, when he wants to eat or when he wants to eat, he orders: "Love the nest."
Later, this kind of food was introduced to the people, and ordinary people could not and dared not say the word "imperial", so they omitted the word "imperial" and called it "love nest". This kind of snack had already flowed into the people in the Ming Dynasty, and it was recorded in Jin Ping Mei in the Ming Dynasty that it was popular at that time.
The glutinous rice used for the outer skin of Aiwowo is steamed, and the stuffing is also fried with peach kernel, melon seed kernel, sesame seed kernel and sugar in advance. You can eat it when it is cooked.
Therefore, Yan Dou's Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks said, "Put white rice in the steamer and knead it with assorted stuffing and flour. It's like dumplings that don't need to be cooked. The halal food is called "Aiwowo". It is also noted that "Aiwowo is one of the foods sold by the Hui people. It is steamed with rotten glutinous rice, wrapped with various fillings when it is cold, and made into a circle with flour. Different sizes, depending on the price, can also be eaten cold. "
2. Bee cake
Bee cake is a kind of pastry snack steamed with flour or rice flour, sugar and fruit. Because this kind of cake is broken and there are many honeycomb holes in it, it is named bee cake.
The red bee cake is made into a thick paste with flour, mixed with alkali and kneaded evenly. Fruit materials such as jujube, sweet-scented osmanthus, pine nuts and raisins are put on it, then steamed in a cage with fruit materials on it, brushed with a layer of oil, poked with chopsticks on the surface during steaming, and steamed. Make red bee cake with standard powder and brown sugar, and make white bee cake with thick powder and white sugar. Red bee cake is sweet and soft.
The bowl of bee cake is fermented with rich flour and flour, then the alkali and sugar are kneaded evenly, washed in a small bowl, oiled inside, put the mixed flour into the bowl, put five red dates on it, and steamed over high fire. Bowl cakes are bowl-shaped, with flowers on them and soft mouths.
Step 3 bake the cake
It is a summer snack among Beijing snacks. Scones and bean jelly are usually sold at the same time. When selling, the stall owner shouted from time to time: "scones and ribs?" Hot and sour bean jelly? "
"Yan Dou Snack Miscellaneous Poems" said: "The color is worse than this, and it's a mess. The scab is difficult to understand, and vinegar and garlic smoke people. " He also noticed: "In hot weather, scones are steamed with buckwheat flour and soaked in cold water. The eater cuts them into small strips with a knife and mixes them with vinegar, garlic and soy sauce. The color is gray and black, and I want to vomit when I see it. Color is evil, you don't eat it. The cake is the same. " It seems that the author of "Yan Dou's Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks" doesn't like to choose cakes, but should act according to Confucius' teaching of "eating evil and not eating". However, although many old Beijingers regard it as the evil in color, and are even scolded by the hot and sour taste of vinegar, garlic and pepper, they still love to pick cakes. Probably because buckwheat, the raw material of scones, has excellent nutritional value. "Compendium of Materia Medica" said that buckwheat "can strengthen the stomach, replenish qi, nourish the spirit, refine the five internal organs and eliminate filth." . It's good to eat poison as a meal. "Now it is scientifically verified that buckwheat is a nutritious food containing phosphorus, calcium, iron, amino acids, fatty acids and linoleic acid, and it is one of the first choice foods for patients with heart disease, hypertension and diabetes. Compendium of Materia Medica says that raising wheat is "sweet, flat and non-toxic", and it also says: "It is slightly sour and cold, and it is difficult to eat, so it is not appropriate to eat more. "
4. Baishui Yangtou
This is a delicious snack in Beijing. It is a kind of food in which sheep's head is cooked and sliced with white water and sprinkled with salt and pepper. The color is white and clean, the meat slices are thin and big, crisp and fresh, mellow and not greasy, suitable for drinking with meals. There used to be a lot of white water sheep head meat sold in Beijing, but the most famous one was Ma Yukun, who set up a stall with two trolleys on the front porch of Xuanwu District. It's been handed down for six generations. The white water sheep head he made is crisp and delicious, and it is chilled in summer. The colder, the better. Sheep head meat is divided into six parts: sheep face, sheep eye, sheep ear, sheep tongue, sheep brain and ladder (maxillary cartilage).
In the socialist transformation after liberation, Ma Yukun turned to transport workers. When "Nanlaishun" opened in Caishikou, Chen Liansheng, then the manager, looked everywhere. With the support of the city leaders, he finally invited him back to his original job. Ma Yukun is famous for its white water sheep head, and is called "sheep head horse".
Ma Yukun pushed the car to the gallery twice. The trolley was full when it arrived. One is to taste the unique white water sheep head, and the other is to watch his stunt of holding a large piece of blade meat. The meat pieces are extremely thin and transparent, and each piece of meat has skin. In Yanjing Snacks Miscellaneous Poems, it is said that the white water sheep head of Majia's six generations: "In October, the cold wind in Yanjing was cold, and the sheep head was listed, with endless flavor. Salt is sprinkled like snow and cut like paper. " It is necessary to recite poems to express the taste and skills of white water sheep's head. Unfortunately, Ma Yukun brought cranes to the west before passing on his skills to future generations.
5. Baiguo Rice Cake
This is a traditional snack for the Spring Festival in Beijing. As early as the Liao Dynasty, it was said that on the first day of the first month in Beijing, every family had the custom of eating rice cakes.
The rice cake is yellow and white, symbolizing gold and silver, and has the auspicious meaning of "high every year". Therefore, there is a poem by predecessors, which called the rice cake: "The meaning of the rice cake is slightly deeper, and it is as white as silver and gold. I hope that when I get old, I will be profitable, and I sincerely hope that my wealth will come. "
Beijing's rice cakes are generally supplied by Muslim snack bars, except for the Spring Festival, but the quantity and variety are less than during the Spring Festival. Rice cakes are snacks for Muslims and sacrifices for Manchu people to jump on. Manchu's name is Heiafeng, Shi Fei. In the Qing Dynasty (Qiu Shi), there was a poem saying, "This cake is called Heiafeng, and it is as fat as food. Xiang Jie must know that God is paid, and Jane is with Jin Ju and Furong. " The note said: "The offerings of Manchu jumping are flying stones and black peaks, as well as sticky rice cakes. Yellow as jade, greasy as fat. It's fake oil powder, dipped in honey, and it smells good. After the jump, I was biased towards my neighbors. Jin Ju and Furong are both cakes. " It can be seen that rice cakes were Manchu snacks at least in the Qing Dynasty.
6, tripe
It is a famous snack in Beijing, mostly run by Hui compatriots. Abdominal explosion was recorded as early as the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty. In the past and now, whenever late autumn and early winter came, Muslim restaurants and vendors in Beijing operated tripe. There are "Fried Belly Stones" in Beijing Tianqiao, "Fried Belly Poplar" in doorframe Hutong, and the most famous ones are "Fried Belly Feng" and "Fried Belly Man".
Deep-fried tripe is made by cleaning fresh tripe (including tripe and tripe collar) or lamb tripe, cutting it into strips, frying it in boiling water, and eating it with seasonings such as oil, sesame sauce, vinegar, Chili oil, bean curd soup with sauce, coriander powder and chopped green onion. The texture is tender and crisp.
In the past, the way to eat fried belly with sheep was very particular. It should be processed into belly plate, belly gourd, belly powder, belly mushroom, belly kernel and so on. According to the part of the stomach, customers can choose the part they want to eat. The time of frying varies with the age and tenderness of the parts, and the freshest parts are cooked in a few seconds. In recent years, due to the large number of people who eat, and the fact that their bellies are full of fresh goods, it is difficult to preserve them, and the supply of fresh bellies is also difficult to solve, so restaurants or vendors serving everywhere have almost disappeared.
In addition to a fresh stomach, kung fu is all "explosive". The explosion time should be just right. If it is undercooked or overcooked, it will be undercooked or overcooked but not crisp or even chewy. Therefore, "Yan Dou Snacks Miscellaneous Fu" chants: "The soup is slightly warm in an instant, with all the seasonings and a bottle of wine. Blunt teeth can't be chewed, and fruits are swallowed raw.
Almost all of them used to go back to the private sector. The lamb tripe used is slaughtered by the Hui people and is also very clean. All the smelly stomachs have been discarded, so they are very famous, especially the celebrities in the pear garden love to eat them. Mei Lanfang, Ma, Xiao Mushroom, Xiao Mushroom, Xiao Mushroom and so on all like to eat. Deep-fried belly is crisp and fresh, not oily or greasy. It is said that it can also cure stomach diseases. If people who eat fried tripe can drink, they always have to drink two or two. After drinking, they ate two freshly baked sesame cakes, which was a great pleasure. So old Beijingers like to eat tripe, especially after beginning of autumn in the lunar calendar. Beijingers pay attention to "eating autumn", and there is a saying that "if you want to eat autumn, you will have an explosion."
7. sugar-coated berries
Sugar-coated haws are famous preserves for leisure on winter and spring nights. From large and small candied shops, fresh and dried shops to street vendors. In addition to famous shops, the quality of hawkers' products also exceeds that of ordinary shops. Old Beijing would rather eat what is sold by stalls than what is made by ordinary dried and fresh fruit shops. From the end of September every year, there are vendors walking up and down the street, some carrying burdens, some carrying straw stakes with candied haws inside, shouting: "Reed rock sugar, honey candied haws?" "Eating Hundred Chants" says: "Gourd covered with rock sugar makes the fruit delicious. Yanshi is famous for its ingenious system, and it is a sign of flying. " Note: "Sugar-coated haws are famous products in Beiping, and all kinds of fresh fruits can be dipped in them. In the early years, lottery gambling was not very popular in Beiping, and only those sold in candied haws often carried signs. "
The practice of sugar-coated haws is to use bamboo sticks to string the selected fruits into a string, usually five. Then boil it into sugar juice with rock sugar (rock sugar must be used), dip a bunch of fruit in the sugar juice and lift it up immediately. Sugar juice condenses when it is cold, forming a thin layer of icing on the fruit. Crystal clear, the shape is named Japanese sugar gourd. When selling, arrange them in a big plate in strings, cover them with a glass cover, or carry a small basket; Or take a wooden square plate and cover it with clean gauze without a glass cover.
Many famous shops also wear peeled whole walnuts in strings, or use a single fresh fruit to make flower balls, one by one, without stringing, and elaborate them, such as lion heads and flower baskets. This is the best taste in Sugar-Coated Berry, and it is also the best gift-giving way.
In old Beijing, Sugar-Coated Berry is the most popular food in winter and spring. In addition to hawkers carrying baskets, there are also the most famous ones made by Xinyuan Zhai and Jiulong Zhai. It is reported that Xinyuanzhai's most famous is "candied haws and bean paste", that is, each hawthorn is cut in half, pitted, with bean paste sandwiched in the middle, and then dipped in rock sugar. Liang Shiqiu recalled in "Talking about How to Eat in Elegant Rooms" that Sugar-Coated Berry was the most exquisite work done by Xin Yuanzhai, and there was no need for bamboo sticks. Each hawthorn or begonia is independent, and the fruit used is big and clean, which is taken away by the guests in a paper box with oil paper. Mr. Liang finally said, "I haven't eaten Sugar-Coated Berry since I left Beiping. I really miss them. "
8. crispy
Beijing traditional snacks. Crispy skin, as the name implies, is thin and crisp, but thin and not broken, crisp and not rooted, crispy and delicious. In the 1930s and 1940s, when I was having breakfast in Beijing, I often asked the seller for a crispy fried cake.
During the reign of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty, there was a teahouse called Yiluju, one mile south of Xuguang Tongsi outside Xizhimen, next to the avenue. It was sold right away. The crispy taste of all the way home is different. It is fried with sesame oil, which is divided into two kinds: salty and sweet. It is moderately cooked, crispy and delicious, and it is famous both inside and outside Beijing. This small teahouse has not been renamed, and it is called "Big Crispy". At that time, there was a proverb: "Xizhimen is three expensive: tinder, golden cake, and crispy." The other two items can't be verified, but they are big and fragile all the way, and it has been recorded for nearly 200 years. According to "Miscellaneous Notes in Beijing", Kangxi traveled around incognito, passed by here, and had a highly praised meal. Later, he ordered the food to be served on schedule, which became a kind of game in the imperial dining hall of the Qing Dynasty. Since then, this "big crispy" has become more famous.