Chaozhou Tea Classic in "Chaoshan Gongfu Tea"

Weng Huidong's Chaozhou Tea Classic

Tourists from Beijing and Li Chao have never stopped since liberation. They saw the newly unearthed Song porcelain, Tang and Song relics, Ming architectural sculptures and folk clay sculptures in the suburbs of the county, which are called the beautiful Chaozhou. What impressed me most was the performance of congou tea. They say that hipsters are elegant and take high measures. Whether they are feasting in Jiahui, living alone, in shops and workshops, going down to the roadside, under the bean shed, or in leisure, they do not hesitate to raise their glasses, hold pots and drink for half a day, so as to spend a happy life. They said that they had been to tea-producing areas all over the country before, such as Longjing, Wuyi, Qimen and Lu 'an. According to their customs, they are far less elegant than hipsters, and they often have lovely Chaozhou sighs. After this hint, I like to exercise in brown, which is outlined by Lu Yu of Tang Jingling who imitated and made Chaozhou tea classic. Let people who know Chaozhou have the same interest. Zi Yuan knows.

Drinking tea is similar to drinking. Think about drinks, several times around the world. The reason is that tea contains tannic acid, which has stimulating and enlightening effects. There are even literati who serve tea as soon as they meet, in order to suit both refined and popular tastes. In business, it also depends on the fact that tea is an important export commodity. Tea not only plays an important role in human life, but also is a special beverage. But I am a hipster, good at cooking, using good tea, and competing for beauty, resulting in the word "congou", which is particularly special in other places. On a clear night, I sat in danger and meditated: I don't miss the contents of this cup, but I have the quality and smell of relying on others.

The uniqueness of congou tea lies not in the essence of tea, but in the excellent equipment of tea sets and utensils and the leisurely cooking.

The beach is adjacent to the tropics, and the climate is normal, so it needs to be drunk all the year round to prepare for evaporation. In the past, people lived and worked in peace and contentment, the land was fertile and beautiful, and the old wild poets of the aristocratic family were comfortable enough to praise each other for drinking tea, which made them worse. We focus on the research and development of "tea", "water" and "fire", which are "cooking methods", for entertainment and recreation in Tao Qing. After that, I didn't hesitate to spend a lot of money to buy a cup and dish, which already included the nature of playing tricks. So there are many reasons for the fame of congou tea. Zi Hou Qiantang Chen Kun chanted a poem about congou tea: "Who ever knew Zhaozhou, and tasted tea classics differently?" . "I don't carry seven bowls of Liu Quan, but I only smell the golden stems and mix cups.

The structural conditions of Aijiang congou tea are as follows:

Essence of tea: The famous tea areas in China include Qimen, Lu 'an, Ningzhou, Shuangjing, Quanyang, Longjing, Taihu Lake, Wuyi and Anxi, as well as Fenghuang Mountain and Daizhao Mountain. Tea making methods include black tea, brick tea, green tea, baked tea and green tea. The varieties of tea are Biluochun, White Haired Monkey, Tieguanyin, Lotus Seed, Laomazui, Qioolong Tea, Longjing and so on. Influx people prefer Wuyi and Anxi in origin, green tea and baked tea in brewing rules, and exotic species and Tieguanyin in varieties.

Taking water: judging the spring and tasting the water, Lu Yu took the lead. The influx of people has a basis for taking water. Try (tea classics): "Mountains and rivers are the top, rivers are the best, and wells are the bottom." Another cloud says, "The spring at the top of the mountain is light and clear, the spring at the foot of the mountain is heavy and turbid, the spring in the stone is clear and sweet, and the spring in the sand is clear and clear. The movers are good, and the losers win. " There are few springs in the mountains, and the mountains show the gods of springs, and the water is tasteless. "What's more, Tian Quan, Tianshui, Qiuyu, Plum Rain, Snow Water, and knocking on ice are different from the home of hipsters who are addicted to alcohol. They get the essence of spring. Every time I am not afraid of dozens of miles, I go to a mountain pit to get water, and I don't avoid the clouds.

Living fire: the key element of tea cooking, water first, fire not behind. Su Dongpo's poem said: "Living water should still be cooked with living fire. A living fire is called charcoal, and charcoal has a flame. Hipsters often make tea with charcoal. The wood resin in the kiln room is made of hardwood, and the smoke smells particularly good. Broken and black, cooked tea is the best. Those who have olive pits and charcoal will be peeled with Ulan, burned in the kiln room, and exhausted one by one. " It is even more special to burn tea with coal dust, but if he scattered charcoal, mixed charcoal, firewood, grass, coal and so on. Not enough to enter the furnace of congou. "

Tea set: Friends of Cloud Creek says: "Twenty-four tea sets made by Lu Yu." Tea set is exquisite, since Cuba is natural, but this is only a personal behavior, it is hard to say that it is universal. The tea sets used by hipsters are basically the same, but they are different in nature and roughness according to different family assets.

Today, the standing utensils in each teahouse are as follows:

Teapot: commonly known as washing pot, it is best made in Yixing, Jiangsu. Originated from the old monk of Jinsha Temple, the most precious hipsters are Chen Meng, Tiehuaxuan, Qiupu, Xiaoshan and Yuan Xisheng. There are also many pots with novel styles. That is to say, like the ampulla, knife lettering is also among the Huangting in Le Yi, where there are many people and treasures. The size of the pot is determined by the number of people who drink tea. Love can be divided into two-person jar, three-person jar and four-person jar, and its depth is related to the smell. Shallow can brew flavor, keep flavor, and do not store water. If you cover the floating water, it's not quite right. This is called leveling. The handles of the pot cover are flat and nutritious. The colors of the pot are cinnabar, antique iron, chestnut, purple mud, stone yellow, azure and so on. There are occasional silver beads flashing. It is made of steel balls, and there are countless beads. As the saying goes, pomelo skin sand is more precious, and the price is the same as arch wall. The so-called "land-gold price competition" includes styles as small as orange, melon, persimmon, diamond, drum, regret flower, six thousand fold, laizi, round pearl, lotus seed and crown bridge. Exquisite, ingenious and interesting style.

Shade the sun: shaped like a clock, but it will ring. This kind of yellow and stinging tea boat, commonly known as tea boat, was originally poured by the official Jia Ke himself. Hipsters also take yin. Or if more customers are busy, they won't flush the cans, and the water will soon come out. But the method of taking tea must be the same as that of taking cans, not near the top. It's better to wash the seeds of decayed teeth, because Myanmar's mouth is wide and can't keep the fragrance, or because the nitrate taste is weak after washing the cans several times, so it's not a routine to dig out the remaining tea leaves in Myanmar before washing, and prepare more customers.

Teacup: It's best to explore a teacup with blue flowers on a white background but a big mouth. The cup is endorsed with the words "If it is deeply treasured". In addition, there are exquisite cups, less than an inch in diameter. Those made of white porcelain in the kiln are as thin as paper and as clean as jade. If the cover is not thin, it will not be fragrant, and if it is unclean, it will not be colored. In addition, cups used in the four seasons also have different styles, such as optic cup in spring, chestnut cups in summer, lotus leaf cups in autumn and bell cups in winter. The cup should also be small and shallow. If you are small, you will be exhausted. If it is shallow, the water won't stay at the bottom. (The neighbor takes a trumpet cup made of Jingdezhen, with a wide mouth and big toes, but if you pour it deeply, you must look up and count the beginning of the pot, and there is also a milk cup with a handle. Have been abandoned by those who talk about congou. )

Washing tea: Washing tea looks like a big bowl, with many deep and shallow decorations. It is produced in a heavy kiln and is expensive. Tea house, there must be three, one is two pairs. One is to soak the teacup, the other is to soak the teapot, and the other is the water poured from the cups and plates where the tea residue crabs are stored.

Tea tray: The tea tray should be flat and wide enough to hold four cups. Round as a full moon, square as a chess. The bottom should be flat and the edges should be shallow. The blue and white plain porcelain produced by Raozhou kiln is the best, followed by Longquan.

Tea mat: as small as a plate, about three inches in diameter, used for making pots and boiling soup. The style should be shallow in summer and deep in winter, and deep enough to put more soup, and it is not easy to get cold. The bottom of the tea mat is supported by a carpet, and the autumn melon does it without giving him any taste. The carpet is old, round, and slightly out of tune.

Water bottle: Water bottles store water for making tea. The bottle has a neck and shoulders, a flat bottom and a handle, and plain porcelain and blue and white are preferred. There is a radish-shaped trough with a mouth decorated with glass dragons on the neck, which is called creeping dragon trough (commonly known as dry dragon squat).

Water bowl: The water bowl is made of porcelain. Put the neck on the tea bed to store water and take out the coconut ladle. Those with red and gold are made in the Ming Dynasty. They are painted with colorful gold glaze and painted with two tails at the bottom of the bowl. When the water moves, the goldfish swims and jumps, which is rare.

Dragon tank: Dragon tank can hold a lot of water to pit the river, and it can be placed on the edge of lent with wooden poles. Fired in blue and white, it looks full of color. It is rare to see Xuande Year. What was produced during the years of Kang and Gan is also very important.

Red mud stove: there is red stirring in the quiet stove, which was used to warm wine in ancient times and make tea by hipsters. It is six or seven inches high. There is a kind of high-foot stove, which is more than two feet long and has dust in the lower part. It can be filled with nuclear charcoal, and it can also be ignited, which is very convenient to operate.

Sand table: Sand table is commonly known as teapot. Shaquan is an obvious example, so Yao must be made of sand. This is made by a famous artist in Fengxi. Light, comforting. Or if you choose copper, tin or aluminum, it will inevitably give off a metallic smell and cannot be used.

Feather fan: Feather fan friends fan stove. Chen Jia of Chaoshan Jinsha has a homemade feather fan, which is palm-sized, with a bamboo handle and a two-foot handle, and its shape is elegant. There must be a pair of copper beside the stove, thinking that it is essential for a tea house to pick a fire with charcoal. In addition, the number of iron boxes in the teapot depends on the type of tea, ranging from large to small, up to dozens. Precious tea must be sealed. Yan Jia in Chaoyang is famous for its tin wares. And tea towels, throw them in clean washing utensils. Bamboo, pick tea residue with tin foil. Tea table, used to put tea sets. Tea bags can be used to store tea sets. On a sunny day in spring and autumn, climbing mountains and playing in the water, washing stones in the water, the forest is quiet, children are calling, tea is on their shoulders, tea is boiled on the ground, and the clouds are shy, just like the emperor's fairyland. "Kung Fu tea" is all I have, so I drink tea.

Home can only be called "time" if you have everything you need. Otherwise, cow drinks to quench thirst, and congou is like a cloud. Cooking method: Pay attention to tea, water, fire and tea set. If the cooking is poor, how can we talk about it? It is based on the work of congou, all the cooking methods. Therefore, the house on earth, elegant people, and even a guest who is making tea, regardless of micro-washing and fine sprinkling, are presided over by the owner himself, and dare not be easily imaginary; It's easy for a novice to see things.

Cooker: the mud stove is on fire, sand scoops water, fans the stove, cleans the stove and other fires, and drenches the cup.

Tea picking: Wait for the sound of pine trees crawling and jumping in the sand, and wait for the fish eyes to protrude from the mud stove when it boils (meaning, you can't lift the lid), that is, lift the sand, pour the pot and cup to make it hot, and then put the sand on the stove. Hou opens a tin can, pours tea leaves on plain paper, measures the thickness, takes the thickest one, puts it at the dripping door at the bottom of the can, puts it in the middle of the basket, and sprinkles slightly thicker leaves, which is called tea leaves. You shouldn't eat too much. Because of cocoon tea, the buds are tightly rolled and have strong tensile force. If you eat too much, the soup is difficult to hold, and the juice is cut thick and bitter, and about 70% to 80% is enough. God has changed. This is the initial stage.

Waiting for soup: "Waiting for soup tea spectrum" says: "He Zhaocha has no soup spots." "Tea Classic" said: "Soup is the life of tea, boiling like a fish's eye, slightly audible and super boiling. The edge of the jump is like a lotus bead, which is for the second boiling and the third boiling. A boiling childish, Wei's baby soup; Sambo soup is too old, so it is called Bai Shou soup (there is no old soup). " Beads float bitter water, and if the sound is soft, it is boiling, just at that time. "("Daguan Tea ") There is a cloud:" Every soup in the Zhou Dynasty is like a crab's eye jumping to a certain degree. " Su Dongpo's tea poem: "The crab's eye has passed the fish's eye. "Tides and customs have won this method.

Punch point: take the boiling soup, uncover the lid, encircle the mouth of the pot, and punch people at the side of the pot. Don't go straight into the pot, don't interrupt, don't rush. Jump to improve the pouring, there is no boiling stagnation at first.

Scraping foam: the water will fill it up and avoid overflowing. When it is full, the tea foam will float up, white and overflow the pot surface. Scrape the lid off the spout, and the foam will fall off and then cover it.

Pour the pot: after the lid is covered, pour the soup to avoid pouring it on the pot to remove the foam. When the heat is chased out of the pot, the fragrance overflows into the pot.

Hot cup: after pouring the can, you must pour the cup. The soup poured into the cup should be poured directly into the center of the cup. If it accidentally touches the edge, it may break. It is said that a cup of hot pot can burn incense.

Sprinkle tea: After the tea leaves are taken, pour the pot and cup, pour water, pass by and sprinkle tea properly. It's neither too early nor too late to give up. If the speed is too fast, the fragrance will not come out, but if it is too late, the fragrance will burst out. If the tea color is too liquid, it will make the taste bitter, and all the work will be in vain. Sprinkle it evenly on each cup and all the water will be drained. After sprinkling for two or three times, rinse the jar again and drop a drop. After the tea is spilled, have a drink while it is hot. The rim of the cup meets the lips, the cup faces the nose, and the aroma converges one step at a time. The bottom of the cup smells three times, which makes you feel ashamed, delicious, fragrant and full of teeth and cheeks, and makes you kiss your throat. God is dedicated to the people and thinks about the past and the present. At this point, the samadhi realm has become "kungfu tea".

Brief introduction: Mr. Weng Huidong, the word Ziguang, also known as Ziguan, is also known as Guanju, a stone man in Chao 'an. He graduated from Wentong Normal School in his early years, and taught in Dongfeng, Yucai, Longxi and Zhao Min in Chaoan from 65438 to 0907. 1908 secretly participated in the league. 19 10 went to Guangzhou Higher Agriculture and Forestry College for further study. The following year, he became a member of the Eastern Guangdong Revolutionary Army Command. Director of Chaozhou agricultural and forestry experimental field and director of sericulture. Mr Weng Huidong is an expert in Chaoshan dialect. He is highly praised by scholars for his "erudition" and "diligence in learning".

Chaozhou Tea Classic, written by him, introduces the geographical environment and humanistic environment in Chaoshan area, and makes a very detailed introduction and summary of Chaoshan congou. Although it has been more than half a century, the details of his articles are hard to surpass by other articles, which plays a vital role in the study of Chaoshan tea culture in later generations. At the same time, the culture fully expresses a series of exquisite expressions of Chaoshan congou tea, and also fully shows the realm of Chaoshan congou tea drinking, and reflects the harmony of Chaoshan congou tea with exquisite tea art.

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