Loach fish breeding technology

Loach likes to burrow into the sapropel mud at the bottom of the water during the day and come out to forage at night. It uses insects, small crustaceans, flat snails, earthworms, aquatic plants and algae as its natural food, and prefers humus. The breeding technical measures are as follows:

1. Loach pond conditions. It is better to raise loaches alone. You should choose a place facing the sun, close to water, and near your home to build a pond that is easy to manage. The appropriate area of ??the pool is about 100 square meters, and the depth of the pool is 80 centimeters. The soil on the pool wall should be compacted, and if possible, it can be plastered with cement or surrounded by thick plastic film. The water inlet and outlet are blocked with barbed wire to prevent loaches from escaping. A drainage outlet should be set up along the edge of the pool to prevent the pool water from rising and overflowing the surface during heavy rains and causing loaches to escape. Because loaches have the habit of swimming upstream, the edges of the loach pond should be higher than the ground outside the pond. Do not allow ground water to flow directly into the pond. There should be a pit with an area of ??4 square meters and a depth of 50 cm at the bottom of the pond as a fish slide (one under the drainage outlet, 3-4 evenly arranged in the pond) to help loaches escape the heat when the water temperature is too high. Lay about 15 centimeters of fertile river mud or organic matter-rich clay in the pool. The pool water depth is 30 centimeters in spring and autumn and 40 centimeters in summer.

Some aquatic plants should be planted in the pond to facilitate the life of loaches (such as interplanting arrowhead mushrooms can also increase income). When there are too many weeds in the pool in summer, they should be removed. Some algae or duckweed can also be stocked in the pond to supplement the loach's plant feed.

2. Cultivate fertilizer mud and water. 20-30 days before releasing the loaches, disinfect with 3 kilograms of lime per 100 square meters and then apply sufficient base fertilizer. Apply 30 kilograms of dry chicken manure per 100 square meters. Spread evenly in the pond, or use a large amount of pig, cow, and sheep manure to pile up together. In the fish paste, let it ferment and decay. In the future, fertilize appropriately depending on the water quality. The water transparency should be 20 centimeters and the soil at the bottom of the pool should not be visible in the water layer.

3. Stocking specifications. Use loaches over 3 cm in size as seedlings and stock 15-30 kg per 100 square meters. If small loaches purchased from the market are used as seedlings, it is appropriate to stock 25-35 kilograms per 100 square meters. If there are flowing water conditions or a high level of feeding and management, more seedlings can be placed appropriately

4. Feed feed. Loach is an omnivorous fish. In addition to fertilizing, it should also be fed certain plant feeds and animal feeds. Usually, bean dregs, wheat bran, rice bran, bean cakes and other concentrated feeds should be fed regularly and quantitatively. The appetite of loach is related to the water temperature. Below 20℃, plant feed should be the main food (about 70-80%); at 20-25℃, animal and plant feed should be divided equally; at 25--30℃, animal feed should be used Should account for 60--70. Animal food can be fed like fly larvae, silkworm pupae, earthworms, snails and clams, and slaughterhouse scraps. The daily feeding amount is generally 8% of the total body weight of the loach, which can be increased to 12-15% when the water temperature is high. The feeding time can be once in the afternoon, or twice in the morning and evening, as long as there is no or slightly leftover food in the next morning. In late summer and early autumn, attention should be paid to the ratio of high-protein feed to promote rapid growth and fattening of loach.

5. Daily management. Frequently change the water to maintain good water quality; frequently check the dams, plug loopholes, maintain water levels, and prevent escaping loaches; frequently use organic fertilizer to maintain fresh and refreshing fertilizer water; prevent ducks, eels, snakes, etc. from entering the pond and harming loaches; in summer, fish slides Put up a shed to provide shade, and use shallow water or drainage in winter to survive the winter.

6. Capture at the right time. When capturing, you can use bamboo cages to trap them, or you can drain the pond water and dig out mud to capture them. When catching, attention should be paid to catching the big ones and leaving the small ones, and to preserve the breeding loach species to facilitate reproduction in the coming year. Loach is generally kept for 150-180 days. Through intensive breeding, the weight can be increased to 8-10 times that of species of loach, and its economic benefits are very considerable.

Method 2:

When there is a water source and it is not suitable to build a pond, wooden boxes can be used to breed loaches. The specific method is:

1. Making wooden boxes : The wooden box size is 1×1×1.5 meters, and the capacity is 1.5 cubic meters. Set up injection and drainage outlets with a diameter of 3-4 cm on one or both sides, and install a metal mesh with a mesh of 2 mm. The bottom of the box is filled with manure and soil (one layer of straw and one layer of soil). The top layer is soil. The water depth in the box is kept at about 30-50 cm. The wooden box is placed in a sunny place with flowing water. Water can flow in through one hole and drain out through the other hole.

Several boxes can also be connected together for joint box production.

2. Stocking density: Each box can contain 1-1.5 kilograms of loach species with a length of more than 3 cm.

3. Feeding and management: Loach is an omnivorous fish. Loach is cultured in wooden boxes and flowing water. The food is mainly artificial feeding. The baits include animal baits such as fish meal, animal offal, pig blood meal, and silkworm chrysalis powder, as well as plant-based baits such as rice bran, bean cake, wheat bran, soy sauce, and rapeseed cake. The compound bait consists of 50 wheat flour, 20 bean cake powder, 10 rice bran powder, 10 fish meal or silkworm chrysalis powder, 7 blood meal, and 3 yeast powder. Add water and knead into a soft ball. The feeding amount is 1-2 of the body weight of the loach in the box. The proportion of animal and plant food and the amount of feeding should be adjusted according to the season and temperature. When the water temperature is below 20℃, plant food should account for 60-70% of the total amount. When the water temperature is between 28℃ and 23℃, plant food should account for 60-70% of the total. Should account for 30-40. Feed twice a day, 70% of the whole day's feed is fed at 7-8 am, and 30% of the whole day's feed is fed at 1-2 pm. Loach starts feeding when the water temperature is 15°C, and the amount of bait should gradually increase as the temperature rises. When the water temperature is higher than 30℃ or lower than 10℃, the dosage should be reduced or stopped.

4. Prevention and treatment of loach disease: In order to prevent the occurrence of loach disease, the box must be disinfected regularly with quicklime, bleaching powder, etc. Once enteritis is discovered, 20 grams of Furazole can be added to 10 kilograms of bait and fed twice a day for 3-5 days. If red fin disease is found, you should immediately take a medicated bath with furazolidine at a concentration of 0.2/10000 for 24 hours. Or use 0.04 (drug to fish weight ratio) of furanes mixed into the bait and feed for 3 days. If parasitic diseases are found, 0.7ppm copper sulfate and ferrous sulfate (5:2) can be sprayed all over the place to prevent and control trichozoa and tongue cupworm.

5. Precautions: When it rains, it is necessary to prevent the tank water from overflowing, causing loaches to escape, and to prevent water contaminated by pesticides and chemical fertilizers from entering the tank.

Reproduction:

Loach is a small bottom-dwelling economic fish that becomes sexually mature in its second instar and begins to lay eggs. Mature female loach has a large and round belly, smooth pectoral fins, and is larger than the male loach. The reproductive period of loaches is generally from April to August, and from late May to late June, when the water temperature is around 25°C, it is the peak spawning period. Loaches lay eggs in batches. Broodstock used for breeding should be those with normal body color, strong physique, and no disease or injury. It is best for female loaches to choose individuals with a body length of more than 15 centimeters and a weight of more than 30 grams with an enlarged abdomen. Male loaches can be slightly smaller. Large female loaches carry large amounts of eggs, and male loaches have more semen. The breeding fry are of good quality and grow quickly.

The natural reproduction method of loach is simple. After the beginning of spring, repair the fish pond, disinfect it with quicklime, and then inject new water. After the medicinal properties of the pond water disappear, put the broodstock into the pond in a male to female ratio of 1:2, about 300 grams per square meter. When the temperature of the pool water rises to about 20°C, a fish nest made of brown flakes, willow fibrous roots or aquatic plants should be placed in the pool. After placing the fish nest, the sludge sediments on it should be regularly checked and cleaned to prevent loaches from laying eggs. It affects the adhesion effect of egg particles. Loach likes to lay eggs during thunderstorms or when the water temperature suddenly rises. Egg-laying usually starts in the early morning and ends around 10 a.m., and the egg-laying process takes 20 to 30 minutes. During spawning, the parent fish chase fiercely. At the peak, the male loach wraps its body around the female loach's front abdomen to complete the spawning and fertilization process. After spawning, the fish nest with eggs attached should be taken out promptly and hatched in another pond. To prevent the broodstock from swallowing the eggs. At the same time, new fish nests are placed to allow unspawned broodstock to continue spawning. The spawning pool should be protected from snakes, frogs, rats and other hazards.

The artificial breeding method of loach is the same as that of domestic fish. The types and doses of oxytocin used are based on each female loach, which are: 0.5 to 1 pituitary gland of carp, or 2 to 3 pituitary glands of frog, villi Membrane gonadotropin 100~150 international units, or analog (LRH-A) 5~10 micrograms. The dose for male loaches is halved. The solvent injection volume is 0.1 to 1.2 ml, using a 1 ml syringe and a No. 4 needle. The injection site is the abdominal line, between the pectoral and pelvic fins, or in the dorsal muscle. Because loaches like to drill, wet gauze can be used to wrap the injection site (exposing the injection site). After injection, they are put into the spawning pool, and the work thereafter is the same as natural reproduction. The water temperature is 20℃~25℃, and it will come into estrus and lay eggs in 10~15 hours.

If artificial insemination is adopted, the male and female loaches that have been injected with oxytocin can be temporarily raised in small ponds or cages respectively. When the water temperature is 18℃~25℃, after 10~15 hours, gently press the abdomen of the female loach. If eggs flow out, artificial insemination can be carried out using the dry method. The operation methods and precautions are the same as those for domestic fish. The eggs are placed in the nest immediately after artificial insemination. The method is: take a bucket of clean water, lay the fish nest flat on the bottom of the bucket, then one person gently shakes the fish nest and stirs the water at the same time, and the other person slowly pours the eggs into the bucket so that the eggs are evenly placed on the nest. After getting into the nest, they are transferred to the hatching pond to hatch.

The fertilized eggs of loach can hatch normally in the water temperature range of 20℃~30℃, and the fry can generally hatch in about 2 days. Use still water in a small container and change the water frequently (twice a day) for the best incubation effect. It is appropriate to incubate 400 to 600 grains per liter of water. Avoid shaking during incubation. During incubation, 0.1 ppm malachite green solution can be used for disinfection to prevent parasitic water mold.

Newly hatched loach seedlings cannot move freely because their heads are attached to the fish nest or other objects and rely on egg yolk for nutrition. The fry hatched in the pond are generally left in the original pond for cultivation, with the water depth kept at 20 to 30 centimeters, and a density of 500 to 1,500 fish per square meter. If the density is too high, some of the fry should be taken out and cultivated in another pond.

The loach seedlings start eating 3 days after hatching. At this time, cooked and ground egg yolk or fish meal suspension should be fed several times a day, and the amount of feeding should be consumed within 1 hour. After 2 to 3 days, add water fleas, rotifers, crushed silk earthworms or silkworm pupae, etc. After about 10 days of cultivation, the fry can be transferred to the fingerling pond when they grow to 1 cm. If the density is small, they can be kept in the pond for cultivation. After about one month, the fry will be transferred to the fingerling pond when they grow to about 3 cm. , or can be directly put into rice fields, ponds or pits for raising adult fish.

The appropriate area of ??the fish pond is 30 to 50 square meters. Before planting, the pond should be cleaned and disinfected, and basic fertilizer should be applied to cultivate feed organisms. The seeding amount is about 30 grams per square meter (800 to 1,000 tails). Feed powdered compound feed within half a month after the fish are placed in the pond, twice a day, and the dosage is 3 to 5% of the weight of the fish. In summer, the water in the fish pond is shallow and the temperature is high. Pay attention to changes in water quality at any time and change the water frequently. When the fish grows to about 10 cm, it enters the adult fish rearing stage.