First, the texture is bright and noble.
Before cotton was introduced to China, ancient people only used silk and linen fabrics. Silk products are always called "silks", with fine classification and various types, including twill, silk, satin, brocade, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk and silk, which can only be worn by rulers.
Therefore, Zhang Yu, a poet in the Song Dynasty, wrote in Silkworm Girl: "Those who wear Luo Qi are not silkworm farmers". Ordinary people can only wear linen and Ge Buyi, so "Buyi" has become synonymous with civilian Shu Ren. Later, the average scholar was also called "Buyi" before he became an official. For example, Zhuge Liang called himself "the minister of cloth" in the model.
Second, the length of identity.
Li Shangyin said in Miscellany: "Servants wear shoes and socks, and their clothes are long in take off your coat, which makes them look like servants." Because "clothes are wide and long" are the clothes of people with status, and servants are the coolies at the bottom. You can't wear them when you take off your coat, but you can only wear shorts.
It's like even in the Republic of China, the inferior people in Xianheng Hotel were standing and drinking in short clothes. Gentlemen and scholars sit in gowns and drink slowly.
Third, the status quo of clothing color
The color of ancient clothing is closely related to a person's status. Generally speaking, bright colors such as gold, red and purple belong to dignitaries; Blue, black and white, it belongs to civilians.
According to China's theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, yellow is symbolic and represents the color of the land. Wearing yellow means occupying land and being the ruler of the world. Therefore, only emperors could wear yellow clothes in ancient times, so yellow clothes became synonymous with emperors. The word "yellow" is often used by emperors. For example, the emperor's dragon robe is called yellow robe, and the proclamation issued by the emperor is called yellow list. The Tang Dynasty is special, and eunuchs with high taste in the court can also wear yellow clothes, so "yellow clothes" is sometimes synonymous with eunuchs. For example, Bai Juyi mentioned the "yellow messenger" in "Selling Charcoal Weng".
The color of an official's clothing depends on the product. Generally speaking, officials with more than three products wear purple clothes, four products wear deep red, five products are light red, six products are dark green, seven products are light green, eight products are dark green and nine products are light green.
In the Han dynasty, there was a rule that "scattered people dare not take variegated colors" (Dong Zhongshu's Spring and Autumn Story). It can be seen that the clothes of ancient civilians can't be painted, and non-officials wear white clothes, so "white clothes" has become synonymous with civilians without fame.
The following terms about clothes are also common in ancient poetry: Zhu Yi, the summer clothes of ancient emperors. Zhu Xi, because the official uniforms of Sipin and Wupin are scarlet and purple, Zhu Xi represents feudal bureaucrats. Black clothes, black clothes worn by soldiers during the Three Kingdoms period. He Yi, clothes of prisoners in feudal society. In ancient times, people who committed capital crimes were required to wear Hershey clothes without collars and ruffles, instead of being executed. Later Hershey's clothes became prison clothes. Jinyi is a gorgeous and colorful silk garment with exquisite and simple patterns. In ancient times, only senior officials and the rich could wear them, so "jinyi" often refers to senior officials. "Returning home with clothes on" means being a big official and showing off in your hometown.
In fact, from the use of colored appellations such as Cangtou, Ding Bai, Jujube Chestnut, Huangpao, Hongdingdai and other words, we can see the hierarchical significance of clothing color.
Fourth, the level of ornamentation
In ancient times, clothes had a system of "twelve chapters", that is, twelve patterns. The twelve patterns are sun, moon, stars, Chen, mountains, dragons, China insects (that is, pheasants), algae (aquatic plants), fire, pink rice, horseshoe crabs (axe-shaped) and salamanders (Asian-shaped).
Each of the twelve patterns has a specific symbolic meaning, such as the sun, the moon and the stars, which shine in light, like the brilliance of three lights; Dragon, the symbol of kingship and human monarch, is good at changing in response to the teaching of machines; Mountain, symbolizing the tranquility of Dawang Town; Hua chong (pheasant), taking its literary color, means that the king has the virtue of literature; Zong Yi said that there is a profound knowledge and a strong virtue; Seaweed, a symbol of purity and cleanliness; Fire, pick it up; Powder rice represents rich food; Horseshoe crab is an axe, symbolizing decision; The two works are opposite, symbolizing the distinction between good and evil, and so on.
Different modes, different grades. The clothes of the son of heaven are all used in Chapter 12. Governors can only use eight kinds of dragons and six kinds of algae, doctors use four patterns of algae, rice and pink rice, and scholars use two patterns of algae and fire. The boundaries are clear and insurmountable.
In a hierarchical society, clothing is an external symbol of a person's status. Members from all walks of life, from food, clothing, housing and transportation to wearing clothes and hats, have strict grade regulations and cannot be crossed casually.