These two days coincided with the Mid-Autumn Festival, which was arranged in a hurry. I'm afraid I don't have time to write this travel note. But a little brother said that just looking at the shared photos may not know the subsequent history and stories, and the impression is not deep. So after careful consideration, I decided to write down this travel experience and tell the story of Hetuala City, Qingyongling and Zhaoling, the hometown of Manchu.
The entrance ticket to Hetuala City is 60 yuan per person, which lasts about 2 hours. If you catch up with the accession ceremony at 2 pm every day, you can stay for an extra hour. And there are both sides, you can make a whole turn, and it takes about 3 hours to make a whole turn. The ticket for Qingyongling is now 50 yuan/person, and 5 yuan parking fee is also charged. But there are not many people, you can feel that kind of sadness quietly, and you can also feel the ancestral land that the Qing Dynasty painstakingly sought.
Since these places of interest are all about Manchu in Qing Dynasty, we should also briefly introduce the history and stories of Manchu. Speaking of it, Manchu is not the real name of this tribe. The name Manchu only appeared in the late Ming Dynasty. But Manchu has a long history of development. Su Shenren, Yi Lou Ren, Buji Ren, Ji surname and Jurchen, who lived between Baishan and Heishui in history, are all ancestors of Manchu in different periods (among them, the Jurchen nationality of Jin State, which was wiped out by Mongols at the beginning of13rd century, is the direct national origin of Manchu). By the early Ming Dynasty, the jurchen people who were originally scattered in the Songhua River, Heilongjiang River and Wusuli River basins with yilan county in Heilongjiang Province as the center arrived at the seaside in the east. Due to the development of social productive forces and the desire of plundering and exchanging between the Ming Dynasty and North Korea, a new alliance was gradually formed and it began to move southward frequently. Redistributed around Changbai Mountain and in the east and north of Liaoning Province, most of them settled and mainly planted. Later, Nuerhachi unified the ministries of Nuzhen, established the "post-Jin Kingdom", and completed the great cause of Manchu reunification. 1635, Huang taiji abolished the old name of Nuzhen and decided to call it "Manchuria", or Manchuria for short. Historically, the Wan Yan family in the State of Jin in The Legend of the Condor Heroes, which everyone heard, was also a Nuzhen, which was later Manchu. Wan Yan joined the Eight Banners in the Qing Dynasty and was administered. Now it is Manchu. The Wan Yan family who did not join the Eight Banners, especially the Wan Yan family who lived in the Pass, were registered as Han and other nationalities in the census and migration over the years. Now, among the Han nationality, Manchu nationality, Mongolian nationality and Hui nationality, there is the Wan Yan family. Therefore, the whole history of Manchu is still very long, but there is no general designation for each period. It was not until later that Nuerhachi unified all the tribes of Jurchen that Manchu was truly unified.
? Hetuala municipality
Then when it comes to Nurhachi, it is inevitable to talk about Nurhachi's birthplace, the city he founded, and the place where Nurhachi became a "post-Jin state" sweat. This city is the city of Hetuala.
Hetuala City is located on the south bank of Zisu River, 6 kilometers west of Xinbin Manchu Autonomous County, Fushun City, Liaoning Province, and 4 kilometers east of Yongling Town. It was the first capital city in the late Jin Dynasty, the last mountain city in China history, the first capital city established by Nuerhachi, the Qing emperor, and the best preserved Nuzhen mountain city so far. It is regarded as the birthplace of the Qing Dynasty and the cradle of the rise of Manchu. This is of great historical value for studying the history before the Qing Dynasty. "Hetuala" is Manchu, which means "Henggang" in Chinese, namely Pingdingshan. In fact, it is also built on intersecting hills. "Wanshui Qian Shan", holding the mouth of the ancient city wall, from a distance, it is not difficult to imagine the mood when Emperor Kangxi traveled eastward to worship his ancestors.
There are not many historical sites in the city today, but the outline of the whole city, some relics, the Great Khan Palace, the birthplace of Nurhachi and some yamen sites of the Eight Banners can still be inferred from the inheritance laid by this ambitious regional hero here.
The city of Hetuala consists of an inner city and an outer city, of which the Khan Palace Hall in the north of the city is the "heart" of the city. It will be called the Golden Hall, also called the main hall. It is the place where the Jin regime called Khan after the establishment of 16 16 Nurhachi. In the meantime, I saw the octagonal cornices soaring into the sky, and the throne and the imperial case were shining and magnificent. 16 16 On the first day of the first month, under the scene of ice and snow in the northeast, the atmosphere in the city built by Nurhachi was warm and dignified, and Nurhachi was full of pride. He was called Khan when he ascended the throne, and he was given the title of gold and destiny. Nurhachi strategized here, gave orders, governed state affairs, studied military aircraft, and accepted surrender, which laid a solid foundation for marching into Liaoning and Shenyang to unify the northeast Jurchen. 1665438+April, 2008 13, Nurhachi burned incense to the sky with "seven great hates" and vowed to cut down the Ming Dynasty. In the second year (1665438+February 2009), the Ming Dynasty sent 80,000 soldiers and horses to besiege Hetuala, claiming to be 470,000 troops. At that time, Nurhachi had only 60,000 soldiers and horses. After weighing the enemy and ourselves, we adopted the strategy of "relying on a few roads, I can only go all the way", and defeated the Ming army with fewer wins. This is the famous Salhu War in history. Nurhachi was not satisfied with the status quo after he established his capital here. Moved its capital to Fan Jie and Salhu successively, 162 1 moved its capital to Liaoyang, and 1625 made its capital in Shenyang. Among these capitals, the city of Hetuala is called the old city.
Fortunately, when I visited the Great Khan Palace yamen that day, I just caught up with the performance of "Great Khan ascended the throne" in the scenic spot. Although it is only a somewhat crude antique performance, I can also get a glimpse of Nurhachi's ambition to lead his people out of Baishan Blackwater when he was sweating here, as well as the lofty aspirations of a troubled hero. Through the scene of that performance, we can know a little about the history of the rules of the Jurchen nationality in those days.
Emperor Qianlong came here to Dongdu and wrote a poem in his own hand, saying, "Hetu Alalian prospers Gyeonggi, talking about making a city on the hedge, riding in the autumn wind, and building a Qin Longxing in Evonne." This shows the grand occasion of this city and its important position in history of qing dynasty.
Yongling
Coming out of Hetuala City, it is natural to go to Qing Yongling. The distance between the two places is not far, and the driving time is about 15 minutes.
Qingyongling is the ancestral grave of the Qing Dynasty, and it is the gathering place of the dragon gods in the Qing Dynasty in terms of geomantic omen. Located at the foot of Yun Qi Mountain in the northwest of Yongling Town, Xinbin Manchu Autonomous County, Liaoning Province, it faces perilla River in the south and Tongyan Mountain in the back. There are Timur, the sixth ancestor of Nurhachi, his first Fujin (Emperor Zhaozu), his great-grandfather Fuman (Emperor Xingzu) and his first Fujin (Empress Xingzu), his grandfather Jue Chang 'an (Emperor Jingzuyi) and his first Fujin (Empress Jingzuyi), and his father Tucker (First Emperor).
At that time, the Qing Yongling Mausoleum was the place where the Qing emperors gathered the dragon gods. Many emperors traveled here to worship their ancestors. From 1682 to 1829, Emperor Kangxi, Emperor Qianlong, Emperor Jiaqing and Emperor Daoguang visited Yongling nine times. But now it's a little shabby. Although it is a cultural relics protection unit, it is still a bit bleak. Only when the descendants of Manchu have grand sacrificial activities can they vaguely see the grand occasion of that year. Few people come here except tourists who are interested in history, Qing history and cultural heritage. Although it is a holiday and a tourist season, there are still few people.
The Manchu language of Yongling is called "Ente and Momeng 'an", which consists of Ma Xia Monument, Qiangong Courtyard, Fangcheng, Baocheng, Provincial Sacrifice Center, Ice Room and Building. At present, the scenic area is not large. It takes about 40 minutes to an hour to visit Yongling Scenic Area.
About Yongling, there are several poems circulated by the Qing emperor when he offered sacrifices to his ancestors. Here, I choose two poems to post.
The Imperial Poems of Emperor Michelle Ye of Saint Zuren
On March 1 1 day, Yi Yongling sacrificed to sweep the snow.
The peaks and mountains overlap the water, and the king's gas protects the Yongling mausoleum.
Crouching tiger, hidden dragon in the mountains, dragon in the valley.
The cloud seals the ancient garden of vegetation, and the snow supports the road.
One is adaptive, and it is hard to bear the inheritance.
-March 11th, the 21st year of Kangxi.
Sejong Xian Di Yin Zhen's Imperial Poems
Two Poems Following Xing Ling
Thanks to God, Qiaolu is located in Qi Long.
Ten thousand gardens are empty, and the rain and dew follow.
Sincerely through the bedroom, solemnly serve Zong Yi.
Appreciating the ancient pine trees shows that Zhao Sen is prosperous and fierce.
The dragon lives in the scenery and is angry with Yao Cen.
I didn't see the difficulty, so I knew it and helped.
The tomb of mountains and rivers is strong, and the bow and sword are deep when you are old.
Where to accompany the ceremony, the salt instrument is close.
-Yin Zhen, Prince Yong, in October of the thirty-seventh year of Kangxi.
Li Hongyu's Poems by Emperor Gao Zongchun
Yongling mausoleum in Gongyi
Chasing Wang Chuan's former nationality, he left Hou Kun.
Looking at the mountains from afar, we can see the source of Deshui.
Xinjiang prospers, and the stars guard the temple wall.
How many melons feel, tears flow cold.
-Qianlong eight years in September.
rise high
Going to Hetuala City and Qingyong Mausoleum was planned, and going to Zhaoling was a windfall. While waiting for the bus, I made an appointment with some friends I haven't seen for a long time to talk about their friendship for more than ten years, meet their husbands and talk about their recent lives and future plans. After dinner, catching up with the past, and still feeling unfinished, the group decided to go to Beiling Park where Zhao Ling was located.
Zhaoling, also known as "Beiling", is located in Beiling Park in the north of Shenyang, which is the main attraction in the park. Zhaoling is the mausoleum of Emperor Taizong, the second generation founding monarch of the Qing Dynasty, and Bolzigit, the filial piety queen. It is also home to the imperial concubines of Guansui Palace, Linzhi Palace and Zhenqing Palace. In the early Qing Dynasty, Zhaoling was the largest and most magnificent of the "Three Tombs outside the Guanwai". Here, the Gu Song is majestic, the halls are majestic, and the momentum of the imperial tombs is everywhere. In these buildings, we can also see the integration of the Ming Dynasty imperial tombs and Manchu architectural features.
Although Zhaoling is the main attraction of Beiling Park, it is actually managed separately from Beiling Park. Tickets to 6 yuan in Beiling Park are free after a fixed time in the morning and evening. It is a place for Shenyang citizens to exercise and relax in the morning and evening. The Zhaoling part of the separate fee management is closed outside the fixed opening hours of the scenic spot.
There are six historical sites in Ma Xia before and after Zhaoling, two in front of Zhenghong Gate, two in the south of Shenqiao Gate, one in the east and one in the west, and the other two are near the original Baizhuang, namely, the north bank of Xinkai River and the Beiling Military Society. The stones, shapes and sizes used in the six stone tablets are the same, but the writing is slightly different. The inscriptions on the two Yong stone tablets farthest from the mausoleum are written in Manchu, Mongolian, Han, Tibetan and Hui languages: officials below the kings dismounted here; The inscription on the Yin tablet is the same as that on the Yang tablet. The other four stone tablets are written in Manchu, Mongolian and Chinese respectively, and the inscription reads: Officials below kings dismount here. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Zhaoling's dismounting sign used a wooden sign. In the forty-eighth year of Qianlong (783), the emperor decided to change the dismounted wooden sign in front of Shengjing and the Three Tombs of Shengjing Palace into stone carvings to show the future. Entrusted by Shengjing Ministry of Industry, it was finally carved in Qianlong forty-nine years (1784). So far, it is basically well preserved and has become a precious cultural relic.
One legend is that ...
This is probably the general situation of the main attractions. If you are interested, you can search the relevant background online, so I won't go into details here. However, I believe many people are curious about some of the background stories and legends, so here is a brief introduction.
Qiyun Mountain 12 Legend of the Emperor
According to legend, at the end of the Ming Dynasty, when Emperor Chongzhen was in power, he and Qin watched the celestial phenomena at night and suddenly found that the purple gas in Liaodong was expected to keep rolling in, just like a hundred dragons billowing clouds. He was afraid that the Hunlong would be born and the throne would be usurped, so he found Mr. Fengshui from the south and went to the northeast to break 100 Long Mai. He led a group of people to the northeast, passed through Donggou and Xigang, and found Long Mai. He dug a big and deep ditch around the dragon's neck, which means cutting off the dragon's head, or pressing a small temple on the dragon's head to show that he has stopped the dragon. In this way, they cut off 99 Long Mai roads in a row. There is a "hanging dragon" three feet from the ground. He thought, since it is not attached to the ground hanging dragon, it can't be Long Mai, and no one can be buried, so it can't be a mixed dragon. So he went back to Beijing to report to me.
At this moment, Nurhachi's ancestors were defeated by other tribes in Changbai Mountain, so Nurhachi's grandfather walked down Changbai Mountain with his father's bones on his back, intending to find a place to stay for his tribe. On this day, he came to the foot of Zisu River and Chimney Mountain. Seeing that it was getting late, he lived in a small shop nearby. However, the shopkeeper saw him carrying the urn and let him in without saying anything. Helpless, he had to carry his father's urn out of the shop and come to the foot of Longgang Mountain. He saw a big elm tree with its trunk forked three feet from the ground, so he put the urn on it and prepared to pick it up the next day, and then went back to the inn to stay.
The next day, he came to get the urn and tried to keep walking, but he couldn't get it off, and the harder he tried, the longer the urn became. In desperation, he hurriedly borrowed an axe to chop branches, but when the axe went down, the big elm shed some blood. He quickly called a Mr. Feng Shui. Mr. Feng Shui came here, looked at the big elm tree and looked at the surrounding mountain terrain. He said: "This is a treasure trove of geomantic omen, with Hulan Hada (Chimney Mountain) in front and Longgang Mountain behind. Longgang Mountain has 12 mountain buns, and your family has 12 emperors. God bless you, you should put the bones. It turned out that the "hanging dragon" coiled around this big elm tree and was crushed by Nurhachi's ancestors.
Nurhachi's grandfather buried the urn and returned to Changbai Mountain to move the tribe to Hetuala, not far from Longgang Mountain. Later, Nurhachi promulgated the "seven deadly sins" on the grounds of killing his father and ancestors. He really defeated the Ming Dynasty and became the founding emperor of the Qing Dynasty. The Qing Dynasty really produced 12 generation of real dragons.
Shenshu
According to legend, in 1779 (forty-three years of Qianlong), when Emperor Qianlong traveled eastward for the third time to worship his ancestors, he named this elm as a sacred tree and wrote a poem "Ode to the Holy Tree". The stone tablet of Gan Long's imperial pen "Shen Shu Fu" is now preserved in the West Annex Hall of Yongling.
It is said that in 1863, the leafy "holy tree" was uprooted by the strong wind, and huge branches crushed the roof of Yun Qi Hall in Yongling. The Tongzhi emperor of the Forbidden City felt unlucky. In order to keep the "luck" of the Qing Dynasty, he hurriedly ordered two ministers and Mu Dunzi to rush to the northeast to support the holy tree. However, all efforts to no avail, the "heavenly roots" of the holy tree finally could not resist the will of God, and even the roots rotted away. A few years later, a small elm named "Yupei" grew beside the sacred tree.
More than half a century later, the "sacred tree" was once again blown into the breath of life, and the once forgotten Yongling once again began to attract the attention of the world. 1985 The first Manchu Autonomous County in China was born in Xinbin County, Liaoning Province. "In order to satisfy the desire of Manchu people," Yongling Cultural Relics Management Office planted an elm tree in Yun Qi Hall and named it "Ruiyu".
Legend of Hanwang mirror
There are several legends about Hanwang Well in Hetuala City.
According to folklore, when Nurhachi established the post-Jin regime, it made its capital in Hetuala for the first time, so it was also called the first capital of post-Jin. According to folklore, Nurhachi first built a castle in Feiala, a few kilometers away from Hetuala, but there were problems every day. Nurhachi called a Feng Shui gentleman and asked him why. Mr. Feng Shui said, "Han's adult, listen carefully every day to see if there are any chickens. If so, that's where you should go. " One morning, a crow resounded through the sky from the north of Jiguan Mountain. Nurhachi believed Mr. Feng Shui's words and came here with his family and officers and men to rebuild the capital, that is, the city of Hetuala. Later, Nuerhachi unified other jurchen tribes around and established the post-Jin regime in 16 16.
The legend on the sign standing beside the Hanwang well in the city is another kind. Hanwang well, also known as Hanwang well, is located in the middle of Hetuala Inner City, southwest of Yamen Gang, Zhengbai Banner. The well is deep and full of water. Bend down, look, see the bottom, and have a drink. It's cool and sweet, and it's not sealed in winter or cool in summer. Known as "thousands of troops and horses can't drink", Khan Wang Jing. This is the only well in the city of Hetuala. Since ancient times, the military and civilians in the city have used this kind of water. Nurhachi was named "King of Khan Well" because he built the Yuan and called Khan in this city. Although the excavation date is unknown, the lower limit should be no later than the fifth year of Ming Dynasty when Zuo Wei Fancha and Uncle Dongshan settled here (1440).
This Mid-Autumn Festival passed in a hurry, and it was very fulfilling and rewarding. People who are interested in this historical past can feel it!
? On the way to the expressway, my brother looked at the distant roads and mountains and wrote a poem:
There are mountains in front of the road.
We are all living immortals,
We are all living immortals,
There are mountains in front of the road ~ [bad smile]
Other travel notes:
Visit three temples and one tower, and enjoy Lingyun, an ancient pagoda with eight scenic spots in Gutong County.
Having realized my wish for many years, the whole family traveled to Suzhou together.
Maldives, tears in the Indian Ocean, a magnificent dream.