The Alps start from the Gulf of Genoa in the Mediterranean Sea, cross the border between Italy and France, enter Switzerland, lie in Liechtenstein and Austria, and extend to southern Germany and Slovenia. They are flat ridges in central Europe, adding countless beautiful scenery to these mountains. For example, Switzerland and Tyrol, a county in western Austria, are all competitions of thousands of rocks. Lakes, large and small, are scattered all over the place, as if hundreds of mirrors and thousands of colored glasses were embedded in these wonderful and abrupt scenery. There are many leaves in the mountainous area, and there are green grass and flocks of cattle and sheep everywhere, so the famous products here are chocolate candy, cheese, wool coat and leather. On the vast grassland of the four fields, the cool breeze at the end of the day blows over the ground, and all the weeds are very low. From a distance, flocks of cattle and sheep swarmed in. This concept of painting was composed into a tune, which was sung by Hu, a general of the Northern Dynasty: "... the sky is like a poor thatched cottage, covering four fields, the sky is grey and wild, and the wind blows grass and lowers cattle and sheep." 」
Terrul County can be traced back to Habsburg dynasty in Hasburg, which was returned to Austria in 1363. 1493, Maximilian, emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and king of Austria, used this county as a military base to expand its territory and develop its power, so Tyrol was the political cradle of Austria. /kloc-At the beginning of the 9th century, Napoleon ruled Europe. According to this county, the soldiers classified it as a vassal state of Bulgaria and Bavaria. 18 15, after Napoleon's defeat, it returned to its original owner. It was nearly ten o'clock in the morning when our bus stopped near Lenz Railway Station, the capital of East Tyrol District. Freddy, the team leader, announced: "We have a half-hour break and are free to move around here. Lenz is a city with special political status in Austria. After the disintegration of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I, a large area of land in the south of Tyrol was forcibly occupied by Italy as a reward for joining the Anglo-French-American alliance and defeating Germany, Austria and Turkey. Therefore, East Tyrol, the Ruhr area in the east of Thailand, hangs out of the country and no longer borders Thailand, so Austria and Italy have an agreement: the train from Lenz to the provincial capital Inn *** ruck will cross the Italian border.
I got off the bus and walked into a building full of shops, much like shopping centers in big American cities. The counter of a coffee shop is filled with all kinds of desserts. I tasted a lot of exquisite sweets and cakes in Switzerland and Austria this week. I couldn't resist it, and I couldn't consider the consequences of paunchy. I chose a cup of "Black Forest" and an espresso. It's embarrassing to pay money. The lobby is full and I don't know where to accommodate it. While hesitating, not far away, Huo Ran, a tall and thin old man with white hair and gold-rimmed glasses, stood up and smiled. He spoke fluent English with a slight accent and said to me, "Friend, sit with me." I thanked him and sat down. I wanted to say hello to him, but his attention returned to the newspaper. I want to know the identity of this old man. Let's speculate like Sherlock Holmes. He is elegant in clothes, elegant in manners and fluent in English. He must be an educated "gentle" person. The words in the newspaper are not German, but Slavic. The conclusion is that the old man is from neighboring Slovenia. My thoughts were interrupted by my neighbor's thunderous Italian. Two Italian truck drivers were talking with beer in their hands. After drinking the last sip of tea, the Slovenian old man stood up and said goodbye to me: "I have to catch a train." Thank you for your company. No sooner had he left than a young man with fluffy hair sat in the old man's seat, took out a pack of cards from his pocket and said in English with a strong French accent, "Play with me for twenty Swiss francs each. I told him that he never gambled, and he stormed off at once. Then came a woman in her twenties, holding a baby girl about two years old. Crisp German is like an oriole: "Honey, ask this uncle if we can sit opposite him?" "Blonde doll with a sweet smile, big blue eyes as bright as crystal. I suddenly realized that Lienz is a small border town, so I met four people of different nationalities in just fifteen minutes. This coffee room is simply the National Exhibition Hall! After eating the cake, I took a few steps and was already in a vast square, facing an endless long street. The houses along the street are very short, and many doorways are planted with evergreen shrubs and geraniums with different colors of flowers. This town is very elegant. I complained that the tour group didn't allow me to stay longer, so I had to hurry on my way.
Lienz is located in a valley surrounded by mountains. Not far from the garage, we entered the mountainous area of dolomite (a kind of layered limestone). Dolomiti is a famous wonder in the Alps. The painter Leonardo da Vinci set the mountain as the background, which set off the Mona Lisa's smile. On these towering dark green peaks, there is even a layer of limestone with pink egg yolk, which is uneven, like a crocodile's teeth in a row. Lingxiao inserted into the sky, and dry clouds covered the sun. A long waterfall pours into the world between the peaks, like a white practice, breaking the green hills on both sides. I use the poem of Huang Geng, a poet in the Yuan Dynasty, to describe this scene: "The mountain swallowed up and the sun disappeared, and the water broke the cloud. The waterfall pours clear water into the stream, which is more turbid than the white clouds on the mountainside. The main color of this endless landscape is green, but a few whites are inserted: the clouds on the mountainside are white; The snow on the summit is white; The waterfall is white; The waves raised by the stream on the boulder are white; The wisps of smoke from the chimneys of sparse houses in the mountains are also white. It's like beating a few drums and shaking a few wind chimes. The timbre is beautiful. How harmonious and pleasing to the eye! Exactly: "the winding path follows the flowing water, the flying spring is full of smoke, all mountains are painted, and no trees are towering." "I can have the opportunity to see the wonders of dolomite in the high-spirited year, which is really worthy of this life.
Less than an hour later, we have entered the Italian border. Because Austria and Italy belong to the Great European Economic Union, all the way is unimpeded, without going through customs, and only a big Italian sign is erected on the roadside. Fredy, the team leader, knows Austrian history well and has a deep homesickness for his hometown. He enthusiastically explained to us that this place is the Italian province of Alto Adige. It turned out to be Nanterren Nantirol of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. For more than 80 years, it has fallen into a foreign country, but the people still speak German and their life is still Germanic. Mussolini was in power and once tried to assimilate the residents here, moved in a large number of Italians and encouraged them to marry Germans. All city names, including names, were italicized. So John became Giovanni, Heinrich became Enrico, Ludwig became Luigi, and Carl became Carlo. I wrote an interesting foot here by the way. On the eve of the trip, I gave Freddie a small account at the ingeborg Hotel in ingeborg. The envelope quoted Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, but changed the name to "Oh, Alfredo, parting is such a sweet regret". Freddie accepted it and said, "Mr. Zheng, you are very humorous. I don't mind being called Alfredo, but I won't be Italian! Under Mussolini's policy, almost half of Nanterre's big cities are pure Italian residents. " The mountains and rivers are the same, but the people in the city are different. "This is a continuation of the mountainous area of Dolomite, and the scenery is no different from the suburbs of Lenz. I silently enjoyed the wonders of the world in the car and saw the vast space for kites flying and fish jumping. I deeply feel that many people in the world are bound by the shackles of locks and reins, and it's too late to regret it! It is no wonder that Wu Meicun, a poet in the early Qing Dynasty, wrote a poem of self-sighing about "being an official for a lifetime" in order to make a living. The two words of the Neck Couplet are the most alert: "Song Jun dares to hate the hardships of wind and frost, and fish and birds still think about the width of heaven and earth. "How he envies the freedom of fish and birds between heaven and earth. Although pine and bamboo can grow in Shan Ye, it is worthwhile to suffer from wind, frost and rain. Compared with the bondage of the world of mortals, the empty mountains and rivers naturally inspire infinite philosophy!
The carriage went along the winding mountain road and passed through a hidden valley. I saw a simple grave. Although I know nothing about Feng Shui, I also know that it is excellent here. I wonder if the underground people really found the dragon cave? Freddy said that he was an officer of the Austro-Hungarian Empire during World War I and came from Nanterre. He was killed in the battlefield in southern Italy during the fierce battle between Austria and Italy. He was ordered to transport the wreckage back to his hometown so that he could die in a foreign country and return to his hometown. But the greatest historical irony is that when he was buried, Nanterre had been cut off to Italy and his hometown had become a foreign land. When I was young, I read the short story "The Last Lesson" written by French national writer Halfon Nice Daodai, describing the mentality of local residents when France cut Alsace to Prussia after the defeat and taught French for the last time. At the same time, I think of two poems written by Lu You, a patriotic poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, for the residents of the Yellow River valley who fell into the state of Jin: "The adherents shed tears and look south for another year." The Ruhr in Nantai has been a foreign country for more than 80 years. Residents still remember the old country and the Germanic culture is vivid. No wonder Freddy, the leader of Tyrol, talked about this sad history, grief and indignation, and all kinds of words! Nanterre people are really helpless in life!
The second rest in the morning was near noon, near the lake Misurina, which was steep and surrounded by cliffs and rocks. Maybe this is the plateau of the Alps. Ice has formed in the shallow water near the lake. At this time, the wind is blowing, it is raining in Mao Mao, and the water in the lake is rippling. It is really "autumn waters separate waves, and the mountains are beautiful." It's probably quite cold, and these rain lines have become ice lines. Mr. and Mrs. Rick Wong from Singapore, their youngest son and old mother are all very excited. This is the first time they saw snow and ice. They picked up the ice and played with it as a snowball. I stood in the pavilion to avoid the snow and enjoy the scenery of "the door is cold and snowy".
Have lunch in the mountain city of Cortina d'Ampezzo at 1 pm. I asked Freddie how much Italian currency to change. He replied, "We only stayed in Porzano, the provincial capital, for one night. Dinner is in the hotel, which is paid by the tour group. This lunch is worth about 12 dollars. " So I exchanged Italian coins worth 15 yuan at the town bank. This town is a ski center and once hosted the Winter World Games. Looking around, it is rather depressed and deserted. Maybe the skiing season hasn't started yet. Fredy recommended a famous restaurant selling Italian pancakes. There are many small rooms in the room. There are 35 people in the tour group, and I am the only one left. Where can I sit? While hesitating, Vern Curtis in the first room waved to me and invited me in. There is a long table for ten people in the room. He is a Mormon and travels with his wife, three sisters and three brothers-in-law. I quickly said, "Your family of eight is very kind. How can you let a stranger like me get involved? " ? He said, "We have long regarded you as family. Don't say anything This lunch is on me. You are our distinguished guest. " During this week, we visited Chytra Ying Chao Villa in Germany, Schobrun in Vienna and Hablurg Dungeon in Kapuqin Monastery. They were very surprised that I was familiar with the history of Germany and Austria, so we had a very pleasant conversation. Before his retirement, Fern served as the president of a large American company and lived in Germany and Switzerland, so he was proficient in German. We took the English menu, Fern and the waitress spoke German and ordered Italian food. He asked for three more bottles of red wine and poured me a full glass: "Today, it is fate to meet in a different place. Let's drink to cherish this rare opportunity! " "I used to be a teetotaler, but it was hard for me to refuse his warm hospitality." Don't get drunk before you go to the bottle, because you are all strangers. "So there is a large piece of white floating. The blazing fire in the fireplace made my shoulders unusually warm, but not as warm as the boiling red wine in my blood. These casual travelers gave me affection. But when we think of "the endless wandering of the world, we meet in a hurry, and it is inevitable to be disappointed and depressed." "The connection of time and space can create some short-lived but real friendships, which I have encountered many times in my life travel experience. (Please refer to the Travels of Riga II in Berlin).
Porzano, bolzano, the capital of Upper Adige, is the only German-speaking Italian city I have ever seen. Street names are bilingual in Italian and German. This is an antique town, and its architectural style is no different from that of small Austrian towns such as St. Vitter and Lenz. Residents talk in German, Strauss's waltz music floats in the air, street stalls sell sausages and sour cabbage, and many people walk in the street under a long arch. I also saw some in Bern, Switzerland and Graz, Austria. Obviously, Mussolini's italization in Porzano was a complete failure. This extreme policy has caused many people's resistance here. Germans and Italians can't celebrate each other, let alone get married. After the mid-20th century, Rome adopted a policy of appeasement, allowing Upper Adige autonomy, and Porzano resumed the German-Austrian history curriculum in primary and secondary schools, so that the two peoples could live in peace. So Porzano devoted itself to the development of industry and commerce, and became the city with the highest living standard in Italy, surpassing Rome and Venice. There are always two avenues in Italian cities named after the heroes who unified Italy, garibaldi and Mazzini. But there are two roads here, one is via Upper Adige (also called Sudtirolstrasse in German), and the other is via andreas hofer. He is a hero of Nanterre under Austrian rule, and his life story is touching.
Andreas hofer was born in 1767 in a small town in southern alps, in San Leonardo, Nanterre, about 50 miles north of Porzano. He used to be a hotelier in the Alps. Napoleon assigned the Austrian county of Tyrol to his vassal Veglia, and Hofer organized a strong peasant team and launched the Tyrol War of Independence to fight to the death with Napoleon's troops. 1809, in the southern suburbs of Innsbruck, the capital, the British and French allied forces were hit hard three times. Unfortunately, his struggle was not supported by Vienna. After the fourth fierce battle, he fled to the Alps. He was betrayed by his partner in 18 10. Napoleon deported him to mantua and shot him. I was in the Inn *** ruck the other day, and I didn't mean to mourn the bodies of two Hoff. After we visited the church Wilton Abbey, I found his military statue nearby. Originally, this is the town of Bei giselle where Hofer and Napoleon fought bloody battles. Unfortunately, I have no time to visit the museum. There must be many cultural relics about him. After lunch, I happened to walk into Hofkirche Church in Ruck, Inn * * *, and his sarcophagus hung in the corner. Hofer's hometown has entered Italy, and he can bury his bones in Tyrol's hometown, which is much happier than the officers in the first world war on the hillside. Hofer, the spirit of heaven, must be comforted. Then I asked Freddie, "Why didn't you point out Hofer's burial place earlier?" He retorted, "How do I know that you know so much about Austrian history? "I saw something with his name as the number on a street in Porzano. If Hofer can make a name for himself in the enemy country at that time, he will be immortal.
That night, I stayed at Laurin Park Hotel, which is the oldest and most luxurious hotel in Porzano. It is very beautiful in a park in Tsinghua, Shui Mu. Hotel rooms are all Belle Epoque style, which is the luxurious and erosive style of Paris during the First World War. The walls are all mahogany plates, and the works of some famous painters are hung. It is said that this hotel has hosted many historical celebrities, including Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria-Hungary, whose assassination in Sarajevo ignited the gunpowder line of World War I, Leopold of Belgium, and Montgomery, commander-in-chief of the British army in World War II. These historical relationships have aroused my yearning for this ancient hotel. My room is very small, facing the park, with flowers and trees. It's quite quiet. I have enough time to go shopping before dinner.
The center of Porzano is Walter Square, and the symbol is the cathedral built around13rd century. I passed by after business hours and locked the door. This city is very simple, unlike the streets and shops in Rome, Milan and Venice, which compete for beauty and attract tourists. It seems that most shops supply daily necessities to local residents. Walking into a hardware grocery store, I saw an iron oil bottle with pastoral scenery and local flavor. Italian coins worth 15 dollars in my pocket are intact because Fern Curtis invited me to lunch. Look at the price, about 17 yuan. I take the oil bottle, find the owner, give it away, and post another three dollars, which is always enough. The shopkeeper is a middle-aged man. He collected all the Italian coins, wrapped the oil bottles and gave me back three dollars. He spoke to me in German, probably because I was a tourist and had special treatment. I am very touched. This will never happen in Rome or Naples. After more than ten blocks, I entered an alley. The first shop is a leather goods store. There is a dark brown leather bag in the window. The color is very similar to what I saw in the hotel lobby in assisi (San Francesco's hometown) last year. At that time, I hesitated and missed the opportunity. I went in to ask, and a young girl who knows a little English and has a good service attitude showed me her wallet. The price tag is 270 dollars. I promised to buy it, and immediately paid two 100 yuan and traveler's checks from 50 yuan, ready to make up 20 yuan's cash for her. She quickly said, "That's enough. As a foreigner, you don't have to pay taxes. " He also gave me an exquisite ballpoint pen as a souvenir. Porzano's folk customs are so simple! In Venice, more than 300 miles southeast of here, you may have to bargain many times before you can make a deal. The dinner that night was arranged in the restaurant on the second floor of the hotel. It was classical and gorgeous, as if time had gone back a hundred years. The waiter put on a white uniform and gold buttons. The main course is grilled steak, which is far better than what I ate in Italian cities last year.
The next morning, I said goodbye to Porzano. It was a stormy day. Before returning to Switzerland, the trip was originally scheduled to stop in Melano, the ancient capital of Tyrol. Freddie said that Melano is full of smooth boulders or muddy roads, so it is not easy to walk in the rain. The old man's legs are not good, so he has to sacrifice the sightseeing in Melano. Not far from Melano is San Leonardo, the hometown of andreas hofer. Of course, it's hard for me to ask Fredy to detour there in the rain to mourn. Soon after Melano, the car will climb the steeper slope and then cross the Alps to reach the Swiss border. The car will stop, and this time it will go through the customs, because Switzerland is not a member of the Greater European Economic Union. In fact, I am also anxious to get the customs stamp to prove that I have left this economic zone, so that I can send the certificate back to Swarovski's head office in Inn *** ruck and get back the business tax paid in advance for the purchase of Crystal Cobra.
We entered Graubenden, the largest county in Switzerland. These residents are aborigines in the mountains. Unlike other countries, their ancestors immigrated to Switzerland from Germany, France and Italy. The language of this county is Romansh, which evolved from Latin in ancient Rome. Mussolini was in charge of Italian politics and tried to forcibly incorporate Graubenden into Italian territory. Bern, Switzerland declared Romansh as the fourth official language, which ended Mussolini's ambition and shattered his reason that Romansh was an Italian dialect. The car passed through the plant park in Ngarding Pangu, with dense trees and pleasant scenery. Less than noon, I arrived at the summer resort of St. Moritz, which is surrounded by mountains and lakes. The curved lake is like a sapphire embedded in Pangu. There are many luxury hotels by the lake, and the Licheng Hotel where we stayed is one of them. My room has a small terrace with tables and chairs overlooking the lake. It is quiet and affectionate. It's raining, and the distant mountain across the lake looks sad. The trees by the lake are shaking, revealing infinite chill. The autumn wind is full of trees and the clothes are cold; The mountains are misty and rippling. I put on a raincoat and went out to find food. Because of the wind and rain, Freddie canceled the extra program of glacier carriage tour. After lunch, I had to walk around the city alone. The center of the city is a square, and many goods sold in the surrounding shops are priceless. No wonder St Moritz is called "the playground of the rich". This is a mountain city, and many streets are up and down stone steps. It rained harder and harder, and my shoes were soaked. I limped towards the park. There is an oblique stone pillar, which is comparable to the leaning tower of Pisa in America and Italy. The inscription is written in four official languages, but of course I can't understand it. Pu Songling, the author of Strange Tales from a Lonely Studio, is an experienced traveler. He wrote a poem during his trip, two of which are "Wan Li dusty north-south road, misty rain short pavilion". I feel the same way. That night, Freddie announced that the original route was to cross the Italian lake into the south of Switzerland. Many mountain passes and roads along the lake have been closed because of the flooding of the lake caused by wind and rain and the dumping of mountain mud. The itinerary was changed to Geneva and Mont Blanc in Changbai Mountain, France. The details are left to the next travel note, "Geneva is a city with mountains and lakes. " 」