1. Water supply pipeline. It is suggested that all water supply pipes should be PPR hot water pipes. In order to save cost, the upper and lower pipes of tap water can be used together, from the ground in the courtyard to the roof and to the water inlet of the roof water tower. The water for the first, second and third floors is led out by tee joints respectively. The diameter of the main pipe is not less than 2 cm, and the internal diameter of the main pipe should not be less than 25 mm if the pit toilet is installed. Otherwise, a high water tank must be installed in the bathroom (the maintenance of high water tank is troublesome and not very beautiful), or a toilet (toilet) can only be considered. Install a check valve (the height of which should not be higher than the lowest tap on the first floor), another union and valve at the ground water inlet, then install a tee under the valve, and then install two unions and valves behind the tee. Behind these two valves, you can enter the collective tap water and your own well water respectively. In this way, just turn off the one you don't use, and it's up to you what kind of water you want to use. Maintenance is also very convenient.
If you use your own well water, you should consider installing a roof water tower. A float valve and a float switch should be installed in the water tower. The function of the float valve is to automatically stop supplying water to the water tower when it is full with collective tap water, so as to prevent waste. The function of the float switch is that it can automatically control the water pump on and off according to the water level of the water tower when using its own well water. Therefore, during installation, a two-core wire or two single-core wires with an area of more than 1.5 square meters should be installed between the water tower and the water pump, which can automatically control the water pump.
2. Hot water pipes. Hot water pipes in bathrooms and kitchens on all floors can be connected to a main pipe, and the diameter of the main pipe is not less than 2mm, and the diameter of branch pipes is not less than 15mm. The main pipe should go straight to the roof to the solar water heater. Solar water heaters do not need to install pipes independently. The solar water heater needs a 4-core (telephone) control line and a 3-core sheath line (preferably a flexible cord) for electric heating with an area of more than 1.5 square meters. These two routes should be installed in advance. Their starting positions are generally installed in the bathroom on the first floor, which is convenient for operation and observation. The solar electric heating wire should be independently installed with a power socket and a good grounding wire.
3. Installation of solar water heater. The position should not be higher than the water tower, otherwise, it will not automatically enter the water. It's too wasteful to install a booster pump independently, and it's easy to break down, which is quite troublesome. The solar water heater can be used with the hot water pipeline instead of installing the water inlet pipe independently. The position of the water inlet is suggested to be installed under the washbasin table in the first floor bathroom, which should be hidden, but it should be convenient for operation and maintenance. The height is about 4 cm. When installing pipes in the bathroom, tap water pipes and hot water pipes should be reserved respectively, that is, two tees should be installed on the original tap water pipes and hot water pipes. The distance between them should be appropriately larger, not less than 5 cm. Because there are at least two movable joints and two valves installed in the middle, and there is also a solenoid valve and a check valve. In addition, a 4-core (telephone) cable should be installed below, and the other end should be placed in the position where the solar water heater operator (display) is installed, which is parallel to the cable coming down from the solar water heater, and the height is about 1.4 meters.
IV. Power incoming line. The electricity consumption at home should be considered first, and it is possible to increase the amount. My opinion is that no less than two 1-square copper-core wires should be selected as incoming wires, which should be directly introduced into the home from the outdoor meter box, and a control box of PZ3-18 should be set separately on the first floor and the second floor. All lines on the first floor are controlled and protected by the control box on the first floor, and all lines on the second floor (including the third floor) are controlled and protected by the control box on the second floor. The power inlet line is connected in one way, first to the control box on the first floor and then to the control box on the second floor.
v. grounding protection. Rural electricians generally didn't pay much attention to grounding protection before, and many areas haven't installed grounding wires yet. For safety reasons, I think that self-built houses should also be equipped with grounding wires. It is suggested that two 4#4 hot-dip galvanized angle irons with a length of 2.5 meters and a distance of 3 meters should be used in foundation construction. After being sunk into the ground, a 4#4 hot-dip galvanized flat iron should be connected by electric welding. The other end of the flat iron is 5 cm high from the wall. Then, a hole with a diameter of 1 mm should be drilled in the flat iron, and a wire of more than 6 square meters should be firmly fixed with 1 mm bolts. The other end of the wire should be connected to the power control box on the first and second floors. Of course, the hot-dip galvanized flat iron can also be directly extended and welded on the control box. Welding must be firm, and the overlapping distance between flat iron and angle iron, flat iron and flat iron should be more than 1 cm. Only in this way can the grounding be reliable and safe. Measure the grounding resistance at 4 ohms.
VI. Layout of indoor power lines. In the power control box of each floor, a leakage protection switch with rated current greater than 4 amps is installed as the main switch. Later, unipolar air switches are installed in each branch for control and protection. The line design should consider the independence of each air conditioner, with 1.5 wires of 2.5 square meters and 1 wire of 1.5 square meters, and protected by 16 mm diameter PVC conduit sleeve; If it is three air conditioners, use two 4-square wires and one 1.5-square wire, and use 2 mm diameter PVC conduit sleeve to protect it. The kitchen socket wiring must be independent, with two 2.5 square wires and one 1.5 square wire, and protected by a 16 mm diameter PVC conduit sleeve. The socket in the living room should be independent, with two 2.5 square wires and one 1.5 square wire; The power supply of each bathroom is independent, with two 2.5-square wires and one 1.5-square wire, and one bathroom on the first floor also needs an independent socket wire for solar water heater heating, with two 2.5-square wires and one 1.5-square wire; The power supply of each room can use one wire respectively, which is used for socket and lighting, with two 2.5 square wires and one 1.5 square wire; If economic conditions permit, it will be safer to install sockets and lighting lines separately. Two 2.5 square wires are enough for the lighting circuit, which does not need grounding protection.
All wall sockets and switches should use the same brand and model, or adopt model 86 or model 12, depending on your meaning. However, you have to think about it before the embedded wiring is connected, and it is very troublesome to change it later. The location of sockets and switches should be considered carefully, especially the number and location of sockets are very important. In addition, I suggest that the power supply of the refrigerator socket on the first floor be wired and controlled independently, with two 2.5 square wires and one 1.5 square wire. Its purpose is that when your family goes out for a few days, you can turn off all other power supplies at home and work in the refrigerator, which not only ensures safety but also keeps the food in the refrigerator from deteriorating. The socket in the kitchen should not be too close to the gas stove.