In ancient times, dragon robes introduced various dragon seal patterns on them, which changed from generation to generation. The number of dragons is generally nine: three before and after, left and right shoulders 1, and front 1, so five before and after are in line with the Ninth Five-Year Plan. In the Qing Dynasty, dragon robes were also embroidered with "water feet" (patterns of water waves and rocks in the hem and other parts), symbolizing the unity of mountains and rivers. Dragon robe is a dress worn by ancient emperors when attending celebrations. According to "Suzhou Official Records" (volume 147), in the 29th year of Wanli in Ming Dynasty (A.D. 160 1), eunuch Sun Long went to Suzhou as a tax supervisor and supervised the production of the dragon robe. 1957, among the unearthed cultural relics excavated in Dingling of the Ming Tombs in Beijing, there was a silk robe. Because the embroidery pattern on the dragon robe is mainly dragon, it is named.
The open space of the dragon robe is generally Chu yellow. There are nine dragons embroidered on the dragon robe with five-color clouds in the middle. There are 1 straight dragons in the front and back of the collar, 1 straight dragons in the front and back of the knees, and 1 straight dragons in the sleeves. The dragon robe is not for the emperor. You can wear it above the county king, but it can't be yellow. Other officials can't wear it. They can only wear it if the emperor gives them a hand, but they must "pick a paw" to show the difference. In the Ming Dynasty, the reformed robes, called embroidered robes, became the official clothes of the Ming Dynasty.
The color selection of robes is very well studied and very strict. The color used by ancient people is not only the need of human nature, but also the symbol of a race or tribe. In the ancient Paleolithic Age, people dyed their clothes with hematite. In Xia Dynasty, they advocated black. In Zhou Dynasty and Han Dynasty, they advocated red and Qin Dynasty. After the demise of Qin Dynasty, they advocated yellow. For the first time, the dragon robe worn by China Emperor Liu Heng was yellow. From then on, yellow was regarded as the noblest and symbolized the central government for a long time. So this trend continued until the end of feudal society. The figures on the robes are composed of pale moon, pinyue and plain blue, and the "bat" has several colors such as vermilion, bordeaux, crimson, incense and bronze. "Ruyitou" consists of bright blue, moonlight, navy blue, pink, pink, bordeaux and snow ash.
The work of robes can be divided into embroidery and silk reeling, among which the silk reeling process is relatively complicated, which is technically called "joining warp and breaking weft". This reeling technology has been circulating in China for a long time. It was mainly used for other decorations in the Song Dynasty and for clothing in the Qing Dynasty. Later, because the silk reeling technology took too long working hours, it was mostly used for dragon robes.
Introduction to Dragon Robe in Qing Dynasty Dragon Robe in Qing Dynasty is mainly bright yellow, and it can also be used in yellow, apricot and other colors. According to the literature, there are nine dragons embroidered on the robes of the Qing emperor. The hem of the dragon robe is obliquely lined with many curved lines, which are called water feet. At the foot of the water, there are many rolling waves. Above the waves, there are rock treasures, commonly known as "sea and river". In addition to expressing endless auspicious meaning, there are also meanings of "unifying mountains and rivers" and "keeping peace forever".
The costumes of emperors in the Qing Dynasty are basically divided into three categories, namely, formal clothes, auspicious clothes and casual clothes. Dresses include royal dresses, crowns, end caps, armor and supplementary clothes; Ji fu includes Ji fu crown, robe and robe; Casual clothes are ordinary clothes, which are not stipulated by the code system. Dragon robe, a full robe of upper and lower grades, is slightly lower than the dress. It is a common costume worn by emperors at auspicious banquets and courtiers, and it is also the imperial costume we often see. The dragon robe worn by the emperor is easy to feel awe and mystery in the hearts of modern people. In particular, I am full of doubts about the well-made, exquisite and unique decorative patterns on robes. This article will briefly introduce them.
The emperor's clothes are embroidered with various auspicious and colorful patterns. Such as: dragon pattern, phoenix pattern, bat pattern, rich peony pattern, twelve chapters pattern, auspicious eight treasures pattern, colorful moire pattern and so on. These patterns were only used by emperors and a few senior officials in feudal society, but they were not popular. For example, dragon and phoenix patterns have always been symbols of emperors and queens, and no one can use them except the emperors and queens. Since the appearance of the China pattern, the Twelve Chapters pattern has been the exclusive decoration of the supreme ruler. Until the demise of the feudal monarchy, it was only used in the costumes of emperors and a few princes, and never appeared among the people.
In Beijing Art Museum, there is a twelve-chapter gown embroidered with colorful satin, cloud bat and golden dragon. This robe was made in strict accordance with the complicated dress system of the Qing Dynasty. According to the draft of Qing history? Seventy-eight "Jade Fu Zhi" records: "The dragon robe is bright yellow. The collar and sleeves are blue and gold-edged. Embroidered golden dragon nine. A total of twelve chapters, five-color clouds. There is a dragon in front and back of the collar, a dragon on the left, a dragon on the right, a dragon at the intersection and a dragon at the sleeve. " In the next picture, Babel is standing on the water, his chest is open left and right, and cotton, cotton, yarn and wool are in their own time. "Explain that in the Qing Dynasty, the shape, production technology, decorative patterns and colors of clothes were very strict. The identification of dragon robes in Qing dynasty mainly includes three aspects: workmanship, fabric and pattern. First of all, the work of the robe is quite fine, and the thread used is not the usual gold thread or silk thread. In the Qing Dynasty, most of the production of court clothes and materials came from the Third Weaving Bureau of Jiangnan, namely Jiangning Weaving Bureau, Suzhou Weaving Bureau and Hangzhou Weaving Bureau, and very few of them were woven by Beijing Weaving and Dyeing Bureau. Jiangning (Nanjing) is good at weaving gold makeup and Japanese satin; Suzhou has the best silk reeling and embroidery skills; Lake silk has the best quality, such as twill, silk, spinning, crepe, silk, etc., mostly woven in Hangzhou. Finally, the pattern and position on the robe must not be wrong. Most of these patterns are limited to the emperor's clothing, and it is impossible for other royal palaces and nobles to have such patterns, so patterns are the best way to identify dragon robes.