The understanding of the ancient tea-horse road stems from the mysterious "caravan" in film and television dramas: the eccentric but generous "horse pot head"; Ragged, purple and black, rushing to catch horses; A group of mules and horses carrying loads all the way, climbing mountains and wading in the jungle; Raise a whip, shout a song, shout again, leaving a camel bell ringing all the way. ...
On this trip to Yunnan, I was lucky enough to really taste the caravan. From the "caravan village" in Meiquan to Lashihai, just three or four hours' journey let us Jiangnan people feel the life on horseback, bumping all the way on the rugged jungle road, full of magical charm.
It is said that the historical vicissitudes of the ancient tea-horse road have accumulated thousands of years of historical precipitation, which is the culture that caravans came out step by step in the vast jungle. At that time, the ancient tea-horse road in the south, as the lifeline of Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet, was similar to the Silk Road in the north, connecting China and the west. The formation and prosperity of the ancient tea-horse road opened up a road of business travel for the Central Plains and the frontier fortress, and enabled the Central Plains culture and the frontier fortress culture to communicate with each other.
Now, the figure of the caravan has disappeared, replaced by a convenient expressway intertwined into a network. Only the once ancient tea-horse road is still lying in the vast jungle, watching modern civilization devour ancient culture all the time. Modern people with superior life want to escape from the city, stay in the wilderness jungle, let their bodies interact with thorns and bathe in the morning fog of nature.
Also in the car, the tour guide introduced the origin of the ancient tea-horse road. Although there are many versions of the formation factors, the most credible one is the private business travel road formed by the border trade between the mainland and Sichuan and Tibet. This, basically let us form the * * * knowledge.
The ancient tea-horse road was originally a road beyond the humanistic spirit. Every time a caravan embarks on a journey, it is a journey of life and death. The dangers of the ancient tea-horse road are extraordinary, but the magnificent natural scenery along the way can inspire people's potential courage, strength and patience, sublimate people's souls, and thus set off the true meaning and greatness of life.
Moreover, the widespread spread of Tibetan Buddhism on the ancient tea-horse road has further promoted the economic exchanges and cultural exchanges between the Naxi, Bai and Tibetan nationalities in northwest Yunnan, and enhanced the unity and friendship among all ethnic groups.
Kangzang region belongs to the alpine region, with an altitude of more than three or four kilometers. Ciba, milk, ghee, beef and mutton are the staple foods of Tibetans. In the alpine region, you need to eat high-calorie fat, but there are no vegetables, it is hot and dry. Excessive fat is not easy to decompose in the human body, and tea can not only decompose fat, but also prevent dryness and heat. Therefore, Tibetans have created the plateau life habit of drinking butter tea in their long-term life.
However, Tibetan areas do not produce tea, and in the mainland, a large number of mules and horses are needed for both private service and military campaigns, which is in short supply, while Tibetan areas and the border areas of Sichuan and Yunnan are rich in good horses. As a result, the tea-horse market came into being.
In this way, mule and horse fur medicinal materials produced in Tibetan areas and the border areas of Sichuan and Yunnan, tea, cloth, salt and daily utensils produced in Sichuan and Yunnan areas, etc. It flows from south to north among the mountains in Hengduan Mountain area, and prospers with the development of social economy, forming the ancient tea-horse road that continues to this day.
It was early spring when I went to Lijiang, and the sunshine in the morning was still a little cold. We started from Old Town of Lijiang and enjoyed the unique charm of the frontier fortress town all the way. Cars sped by on the plateau highway, with low thatched roofs on both sides. The villagers' life is still at a low income level.
The tour guide said that the place we are going to is the relatively poor caravan village, where people will receive guests like VIPs when they see tourists coming. Because they know that the schools, factories, roads and all public facilities built here are the gospel brought by mainland tourists. Without tourists, the economy here will become a source of water.
When we arrived at Mabang Village, there were people holding mules and horses in twos and threes by the roadside. I try to find a natural habitat that is not so smelly and suitable for the soul. But everything here is full of commercial flavor, and many simple things have been materialized, which makes us feel very sorry.
Then, the journey of the ancient tea-horse road from Lijiang to Lashihai is just a fragment of our riding life. Since you are traveling in Lijiang, you can't miss Lashihai, horseback riding and the ancient tea-horse road.
In early spring, the weather in Lijiang is warm and cold. Although the breath of spring is getting stronger, the air in the morning is slightly chilly. We came to Lashihai International Wetland Park, about 10 kilometers away from Old Town of Lijiang, which is a wetland of alpine lakes. There is a caravan village in the park, which is a riding experience playground of the ancient tea-horse road.
As soon as we got off the bus, many villagers with horses gathered in the square at the entrance of the village. When we arrived, they swarmed and kept introducing how docile their horses were. After the tour guide and the racecourse manager negotiated the price, I chose a purple mule and horse. At first, I stepped on the horse with trepidation, grabbed the reins desperately, and tried to cross the ancient jungle road in the "virgin forest" under the leadership of the horse leader.
Because it is the first time to ride a horse, the whole journey takes four hours, and it is also very challenging to think about it. The groom is a boy 16 years old. He said that his horse was docile and obedient, and would never run away, which reassured me. I learned from the ancient rider in the movie, grabbed the saddle with both hands, stepped on the stirrup hard and stepped on the horse's back quickly. As soon as the groom raised the whip, the mule and the horse marched forward with hooves.
These Yunnan horses have been engaged in the tourism industry for a long time and have lost their wild temper in the past. Along the way, they walked slowly on the mountain road, and the sound of hooves made a "thump, thump" sound on the stone steps. Before we set off, we pedestrians were all armed to the teeth, with cameras and backpacks, sitting on horseback. I asked my colleagues to give me a magnificent close-up.
Seeing that it was the first time for us to ride a horse, the groom kept explaining the basic points of riding, telling me to hold on to the rope, clamp the saddle and sit on the horse in case of accidents.
When we set off on horseback, the groom not only told us the essentials of riding, but also constantly introduced the important matters of developing caravan tourism projects in caravan villages along the way. In this small mountain village on the southwest border, there are more than 0/00 people in the village/kloc, and every household lives by raising horses and leading them.
There is a special caravan tour company in the village, and all the mules and horses are under the unified management of the caravan company. Every morning, every family leads horses to Little Square Village to wait for guests. The income of caravan tourism is also uniformly distributed by the company, and dividends will be paid according to the number of mules and horses in each household by the end of the month. Some people have five horses and earn tens of thousands of dollars a month.
As a result of the first ride, we shouted and got a little excited. Among them, the bold partner also whipped the horse, clamped his leg, tightened the reins of the horse, and made the mule and the horse run. I am timid by nature, sitting in the saddle shivering, people try to lean back to keep the balance on horseback.
The hand holding the reins is still a little stiff and often pulls the horse's head high. The groom said, just relax and sit still. But my hands still have to hold the seat firmly, so that I can concentrate all my strength on the seat cushion.
Entering the path between the jungle, the road becomes rugged, sometimes climbing stairs, and sometimes turning around. Mules and horses also ran happily on the rugged dirt road, and for a while it was dusty, which made people feel a little chivalrous. The road is getting narrower and the trees on both sides are getting denser and denser.
I think the caravan should have entered the virgin forest by this time. Looking up at my companions on horseback, they looked like I was rocking back and forth, which was ridiculous. Because the road in the jungle is getting steeper and steeper, mules and horses have changed from running to leisurely walking. The little groom introduced the roadside scenery while taking care of the three horses before and after. The mighty caravan that was originally seen in film and television dramas is now truly displayed in front of us.
The ancient caravan started commercial activities between the border areas and the mainland by relying on the Yunnan-Sichuan-Tibet route, and now it has brought tourism and leisure industries to the local people. This change from civilization to culture is the change of social development.
Xiaomafu said that with the gradual development of tourism in Southwest China, more and more tourists go to Yunnan to experience the life of caravan, and more and more mules and horses are playing horse racing. The locals named this place Wohu Mountain and built an ancient tea-horse road according to the mountain situation. On the way, steep slopes and circuitous roads were set up, which added a little adventure and curiosity to the tourists who revisited the ancient tea-horse road.
This artificially built ancient tea-horse road, in addition to the rugged road, also built a canal beside the road for mules and horses to replenish water when they are thirsty and for tourists to wash their hands. We sat on horseback and let the mules and horses sway all the way, thinking that the ancient tea-horse road would not be as leisurely as it is today.
At that time, the caravan took the road of commerce, and there were dangers everywhere along the way. The frequent appearance of horse thieves, bandits and powerful men should be full of danger. At that time, the life of the caravan was a life of licking blood at the tip of a knife, and the horse pot head should also have the demeanor of commanding the three armies.
At that time, the area was densely forested, with a hot climate and full of smog. There are cliffs and deep streams on the road, hungry tigers and beasts in the mountains, poisonous snakes and scorpions in the river, and bandits and horse thieves along the way, so there is a saying that "the poor go abroad." The natural conditions of high mountains and high waters in southwest China make water navigation a pure dream, the roads are impassable, and complex human factors are daunting.
However, there are such a group of brave people who unite as one, fight bravely, carry goods with short but durable mountain horses from southwest China, walk thousands of miles, form caravans, climb mountains and wade, and exist as a unique mode of transportation in southwest China. Later, it evolved into the main means of transportation of the ancient tea-horse road, which solved the problem of people's living materials, promoted reunification, and opened a door and window for Chinese and foreign trade exchanges.
At this time, mules and horses walked slowly on the mountain road, limping, with blue sky and white clouds overhead, looking up at the distant mountains and looking around the lush trees covering the hillside.
A carefree life makes people feel more or less comfortable. The climate in the southwest border is colder than that in the south. There are no wild flowers in the mountains, but the tender branches and buds have also leaned out of the green head, feeling the touch of the spring breeze, smiling and gesturing to the horses coming and going, comforting the caravan who worked hard on the journey.
In the jungle, we seem to have returned to the caravan era, climbing mountains and mountains, following the footsteps of our ancestors and moving forward step by step.
The long camel bells on the bluestone steps and the clatter of horseshoes on the ancient jungle path are all drifting away in the depths of the jungle. The horseshoe prints are deep and shallow across the dusty narrow path, which is the horseshoe moving slowly. We are riding on horseback, and it is also bumpy.
Bypassing a mountain ridge, I rode to Xiemachang, a clearing deep in the jungle. Groups of mules and horses were tied to stumps on the roadside, which had been polished by reins. Horses may be used to resting here. Walking into this primitive Naxi Racecourse, the horses who have been trekking for a long time are already a little tired. So, the leading "horse pot head" shouted: "Hey, it's powder spraying!" Everyone heard the sound of dismounting and resting together, and the mule and horse were tied to the stump by the groom.
At this time, the dense forest covered the sky, and we were surrounded by trees for one hundred years. The huge trunk and lush foliage brought us a little coolness. My shirt was wet by the sweat from the violent bump just now, and now it sticks to my body and becomes a little cold.
Naxi grandma sells soybeans, peanuts and drinks on the roadside. When she sees tourists resting, she gathers around and sells us horse feed. Ten dollars for a small bag of beans, the picture is a fresh feeling. Mules and horses winnowed all the way from the mountain road. It is also common sense that we feed soybeans. In addition, feeding horses is also a pleasure. We also have a feeling of pity when we see mules and horses licking soybeans in their palms.
The old lady who sells horse material is over 50 years old. Years have carved deep ravines in her face. The ultraviolet rays and abundant sunshine on the plateau baked her skin glossy and smooth. It is difficult for a woman of her age to find a job at the same time, but the development of RV tourism has made her find her own position.
After trudging for several hours and resting in this small post, our hearts are extremely relaxed. At this time, there was a breeze blowing in the valley, which was cool and fresh, making our clothes wet with sweat feel even colder and biting. Looking up at the sky on the plateau, there are white clouds floating in the blue sky. The sun is shining and the soul feels purified. The ancient tea-horse road on the plateau retains the original customs, ancient villages and simple folk customs, which are all touching.
After a short rest, we continued to ride, and the ancient road extended along the winding mountain road. The miscellaneous Woods on both sides of the road are endless. After the racecourse, the terrain gradually becomes gentle and the mountain road is no longer rugged. The flat ancient road makes people relaxed and happy, and the feeling of believing in horses adds a little leisure to people. After walking for nearly two hours, we arrived at a plateau wetland.
There is a large green grassland here, which is particularly fresh and beautiful against the blue sky. This is the source of Lashihai-Meiquan.
Meiquan, formerly known as "Mobei", is the most beautiful and fertile land of fish and rice in Lashihai, and also a virgin land of plateau water town recently introduced to the world. The nine-day waterfalls and towering ancient trees here can be described as "Xanadu" written by Mr. Wu Liu. It was the outdoor amusement park of Mufu in those days, and it was a unique land of geomantic omen in Lijiang.
The source of Lashihai belongs to the Yulong Snow Mountain water system, which is the source of Naxi nationality's blood. The mirror-like lake reflects the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and waterfowl soar among the blue sky and white clouds, forming a unique plateau wetland atmosphere.
The seaside mountains in Lashi are beautiful, especially Meiquan. Beautiful spring comes from the intersection of Wohu Mountain and Beidou Mountain. The spring water gushing from the rugged rock forms a sister pool. The water is as green as flawless jade and the bottom of the pool is clear. The forest here is dense, the flowers and plants are lush, and it is quiet and beautiful. This is the first time we have seen a plateau lake. Above the lake, white clouds are floating in the blue sky, clear water is under the continuous green hills, and the vast lake is covered with aquatic plants. A few geese float leisurely on the water, which is a quiet plateau ink painting.
According to the original tour route, we dismounted here and traveled around Lashihai by boat. This plateau lake gives people a clean and bright aesthetic feeling. We sat in a small rowboat, along a narrow waterway plank road, and entered the Rush sea area. From Crouching Tiger Mountain to Meiquan, we have come all the way, and the beautiful scenery along the way is unforgettable, especially the feeling on horseback, which is really an experience that I have never experienced in my life.
On Lake Lashihai, tourists come and go. Every tourist's face is filled with a happy smile, and they also wave to us to express their joy. Some people want to engrave these beautiful scenery in their minds and keep holding a camera to record every moment.
On the calm surface of the lake, the breeze is blowing gently, and a fishing boat is moored beside the waterway plank road. The faint smoke smells of fish. This is Naxi people grilling fish on a fishing boat. The strong smell of fish forced us to stay next to the fishing boat. A small grilled fish with a price of five yuan is a newly caught wild fish in Lashihai, with a brown surface and tender meat. Catch, bake and sell now, which is both fresh and affordable. We all rushed to taste it, which made the fishermen feel at a loss.
Boating in Lashihai, the clear water can let you see the aquatic plants at the bottom. At the moment, Lashihai is green, like a pearl in the mountains, and suddenly falls into a flat depression. The midday sun shines on the sea, sparkling, especially beautiful against the blue sky and white clouds.
I think that the disappearing ancient tea-horse road should be a dangerous journey, but now in people's eyes, it has become so comfortable and quiet. The calm lake water seems to have washed away your fatigue, which is a feeling that businessmen on the ancient tea-horse road never dreamed of.
After leaving Lashihai, the tour guide took us to taste the unique "caravan dishes", cooked beef, delicious wild mushrooms, wild vegetables picked on the mountain and spicy spirits. This feeling really brings people back to the caravan era.
Returning to the collapsed hotel from the ancient tea-horse road in Yunnan and Tibet, we seem to have entered just visiting, and the long hooves and crisp camel bells are still ringing in our ears, making people feel the heaviness of life. The ancient tea-horse road initiated by Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet business travelers is a long-standing Central Plains culture and a vicissitudes of history.
Horseshoe, waterfalls, arch bridges and thatched cottages are scattered all over the ancient tea-horse road, vaguely witnessing the prosperity of this business trip in the past. This folk road carries the integration of the living customs of the Han, Tibetan and Bai people, inherits the cultural exchanges of tea, animal husbandry, spinning and farming for thousands of years, and promotes the prosperity of commercial ports, caravans and Guo Cheng.
The ancient tea-horse road, the most spectacular natural scenery and profound cultural heritage in the world, contains inexhaustible cultural heritage for future generations to eulogize.