Pictures/Tsing Yi Master
We set off early this morning, hoping to reach Bamei as soon as possible. We went out and had breakfast at the "Burning House Chrysanthemum Rice Noodles" nearby. This is the most authentic cross-bridge rice noodles on this trip to Yunnan, and then took a taxi to the station. When I bought the ticket at the window, I didn't see the train heading to Wenshan. After asking, I found out: the train to Wenshan is at another station, the old station. Went out to take a taxi and rushed to the old station to buy a ticket and get on the bus.
There is a bad road out of the city. It is bumpy and blocked. Trucks and tricycles of various sizes are moving erratically on the road... I started to beat a drum in my heart: when will we arrive?
Fortunately, the driving gradually became smoother after that period of time, and I felt a little at ease.
As the car started to go up the mountain, there were always large fields of chrysanthemums on the roadside, and some of them had already begun to be picked. I thought of the chrysanthemum rice noodles I ate in the morning. This should be a major use of the Mengzi chrysanthemum (a Mengzi reader friend told me that this kind is medicinal, and the edible chrysanthemum is light yellow, which adds to my knowledge) .
The ethnic minority women who got on the bus on the way, I wonder if they put on their national costumes because they were going into the city.
This is a bar on the roadside in the mountains, about 10 kilometers away from Wenshan. A certain distance
After getting off at Wenshan, I took a taxi to another station before taking a bus to Guangnan. What we caught was the last row of seats on that bus. Since I wasn't by the window, I didn't take any pictures.
When leaving the city, it was another very bumpy gravel road, which made me jump out of my seat several times! After asking the guy next to me, I found out that we had detoured to this section due to road construction, and we would be on the right road right away.
We all fell asleep soon after we got on the right path. When I woke up, I had already turned onto the G123 highway. At this time, the sky would be blue with white clouds, and then it would rain heavily. This happened five times in succession, all the way to Guangnan.
As soon as the bus entered the station, we were asked to get off. When we got out, we didn’t see “there were many buses going to Bamei on the roadside” as mentioned in the guide, so we realized that we should go out through the exit. We turned into the station and followed the directions out of the station to the waiting hall. We didn't see many cars when we went out. We bought a car to Xilin, Guangxi to Bamei at the inquiry window.
It was already afternoon, the sky was clear and the sky was in blockbuster mode.
The mountains along the way gradually showed the characteristics of karst landforms. The blue sky and white clouds were still on the top, and after a while, the afternoon sun began to activate its magic hand of light and shadow again.
Finally the driver asked us to get off the bus. This place is called Farley Village. It was a little rainy here at this time, so I saw a crudely made road sign "Utopia Scenic Spot" on the side of the road. There was an inconspicuous ticket booth opposite the road monument, and I bought a ticket to enter. I was looking forward to taking a carriage first and then a boat, passing through a dark hole like a tunnel of time and space and entering the legendary Peach Blossom Land.
There are not many tourists entering at this time. It was a road paved with large and small stones, which was very uneven. I didn't find the carriage mentioned in the guide. I finally found one, but it had a carriage but no horses. It could be seen that it was abandoned. We were all a little disappointed and started dragging our suitcases on the uneven road. The suitcase made a heart-piercing "clack" sound all the way, and I was worried that it would fall apart. So I dragged it for a while, lifted it for a while, lifted it horizontally, vertically, and all kinds of things, because my hands were sore. Along the road, I saw someone at home welding and making a carriage, but for some reason there is no carriage now.
My daughter was feeling unwell and very tired along the way. She almost made us laugh when she said something: "We have come all the way here to see the immortal Banban?"
Finally, "when the forest is exhausted and the water source is exhausted, there is a mountain." The boy who looked like a middle school student next to me started to say, "There is a small mouth in the mountain..."
I started to take pictures, and my wife urged me to hurry up and take pictures when I come out. Fortunately, I didn't listen to her this time, and I didn't go here at all when I came out.
The village we passed just now is called Chushuidong Village
The process of entering the cave does not require detailed instructions. It is novel and a little nervous. It is pitch black, with only the light on the boatman’s head shining in the air and A fan-shaped light is drawn on the water. Sometimes a ship comes from the opposite side, and two beams of light pass by each other. There is a skylight in the roof of the cave in the middle, and light shines down from above, like a searchlight. I didn't take the photo, so I uploaded a picture online.
At the entrance of the cave, the first glimpse of the beauty of the dam
It had just rained and the river water was turbid.
In fact, I saw in the online guide that most of the water here is like this. I don’t know why?
Directly opposite the entrance of the cave are crop fields, and then the cliff.
Going up to the left is the village.
I saw the address online and got the phone number, so I contacted him first. , generally, no need to pay attention to it. Put down your luggage and take a stroll in the village.
This is the small square and banyan tree in the village. how! There is a van nearby. Doesn’t it mean that the village can only communicate with the outside world through two caves? I feel the disappointment and embarrassment of discovering a costume drama that I like, rather than the excitement of discovering a gang.
Will there be a performance or bonfire in the evening? Looking forward to it.
Looking south on the square, you will see a cliff
There are more tourists in the square, some people start to light bonfires, and the surrounding inns are brightly lit. At this time, the dam is beautiful and dreamy generally.
My wife thought I was taking pictures too slowly, so she went shopping alone with my daughter. Call me as soon as I take a few pictures. After finding them, we went under the banyan tree. We must take a photo here. But, can you be more professional? It’s only been 11 seconds and I can’t stand still. Look, the figure is blurred, isn’t it?
Under their guidance, I came to Bamei Primary School, and I said I would come here to support teaching.
There is an inn in front of the elementary school. The owner is killing chickens, and the idea of ??"setting up wine and killing chickens for food" flashes in his mind. (Stop it, I agreed not to quote like others). He greeted us warmly and asked us if we had eaten, which made people feel very warm.
There was no bonfire party in the end, and the stage in the square was lonely again. We went back to the store to wash up and sleep.
Early the next morning, I got up to watch the sunrise, but when I looked out the window, it was raining lightly. Or I picked up my camera and went out alone.
When we came to the small river, there was a wind and rain bridge. Why, there were cars again!
There was nothing to see and it was foggy everywhere. I returned to the hotel and took another photo upstairs
Due to the bad weather and time constraints, I did not find the legendary A paradise with simple folk customs. My wife said that if your hometown, Wenjiagou, had a cave, it would be similar to this one. I was speechless, but must admit to being a little disappointed. We left Bamei after breakfast and went to Guangnan to take a bus to Puzhehei.
We booked a train back to Chengdu at 18:00 the next day. So I hope to get to Puzhehei as early as possible. I think it’s okay to spend half a day on one day and half a day on the next day.
After leaving the store, I continued to walk upstream, first by boat, then finally by carriage, and then by boat out of the cave. My daughter finally felt a little bit happy along the way.
Choose a chariot drawn by a white horse.
The white horse trotted all the way, and the carriage was a little bumpy, but it was very enjoyable. We arrived at the second boat dock amidst laughter and jingling bells.
This time we chose to take the boat separately, thinking that we could take some photos of the couple. But the boatman took the first two pictures too quickly.
The cave out of the village is called "Tuna Cave". There are lights in the cave, which is very beautiful, but the photos taken during the boat ride are not very good. The photo below has a bit of a dreamy feel.
Come out of the cave, get off the boat and go ashore. After some haggling, we rented a minicar and headed to Guangnan County.
Farewell, the long-awaited peach blossom land!
The cart master is from Tangna Village at Chudongkou. During the conversation, I finally got some answers to the questions that had always puzzled me.
I said: You can take a carriage to Taoyuan Cave. Why is it not available now? You have to drag your luggage so far.
Speaking of the current situation in Ba Meicai, the master also looked disappointed. He said that Shuidong Village used to be able to ride horse-drawn carriages, but due to differences in the distribution of interests, it was impossible to reconcile, so they stopped driving horse-drawn carriages.
Didn’t I say that there is no highway? Why did I see several cars inside?
He said that the highway was opened in 2006. In the past, when people came out, they usually didn't go by boat. It was too dark inside the cave, and the channel was not cleared. They usually had to climb over the mountain. Their family has relatives there, and they will go in during the Chinese New Year, March 3rd. The road was really dangerous, even when we came out we saw the cliff from the boat. There were many fish in Tangna Cave at that time, and he had caught one weighing more than 10 kilograms directly with his hands.
I talked about the architecture of the houses in the village.
He told me that in the past, the villagers' houses were wooden houses and stilted buildings. Now, for tourism development, they have been built into buildings similar to those in other places. He said, "Well, at least some of them should be preserved."
These words surprised me a little, and they spoke to my heart! With such insight, I admired this master with admiration.
In fact, on the way here, I was looking for the Zhuang’s characteristic buildings here, but I didn’t find them until I entered Bamei. The house building here has become the same as any of our rural houses in Sichuan. You can build whatever you want: some of the exterior walls are gray-white, some have tiles on the front of the road, and most of them have exposed red bricks. In fact, this It's better, it looks natural. However, wires are stretched horizontally and vertically, and various "illegal structures" are erected on the roof - this is very incompatible with the surroundings.
The geographical environment here is very similar to the Peach Blossom Spring written by Tao Yuanming. "Peach Blossom Spring" can be regarded as the earliest and most famous tourist guide here. Almost everyone comes here for this point. But now all this is being disrupted. I don’t know if there are too many famous scenic spots in Yunnan, and it’s not worth the relevant departments to use their brains here, or for some other reason. Can this model independently developed by the villagers not be destroyed?
I will never ask Bamei to remain backward and reject the modern civilization in order to satisfy the "private desires" of the arty people like us in seeking a paradise. mean. I just think that with such unique resources, they can get better returns and live a better and more sustainable life. And now I feel like this resource is being destroyed.
I thought of the Xizhai in Guizhou. Although it is not satisfactory, it must exist and even be well preserved, so that we can witness with our own eyes the kind of Xizhai with thousands of tiled houses. The spectacular. I also thought about the wide and narrow alley downstairs. Although it makes the place more noisy, this area of ??folk houses has been preserved, and it shows the characteristics of Western Sichuan folk houses and the stories behind them to the world. The residents who once lived there do not have to worry about the dilapidated or unusable houses. Natural gas and a separate bathroom are worrying and complaining.
It seems that everyone is looking for opportunities and places to escape from the world. Westerners call it Shangri-La, and we call it Utopia. Some people say that every Chinese literati hopes to return to the countryside one day and has a dream of a peach garden. But it is too difficult to achieve.
I first thought it was false when I saw reports on the Internet that the Zhongnanshan couple lived in seclusion. Even if you live in seclusion and dress like that, in white, it's more like filming a movie. That's not true seclusion, it's true show. I am a teacher, and what I want to ask is: If it is true, what do you think about them letting their daughter who is under 10 years old go to school alone in the city? Is it irresponsible and selfish? Psychology says that leaving children before the age of 12 is not good for their physical and mental health! The reports are full of envy and praise.
It is too difficult to escape from the world. It requires courage and material foundation. So we searched for paradise during our travels. It is precisely based on this that a tourist attraction claiming to be a peach blossom land appears, but we are often disappointed.
In fact, I shouldn't be disappointed. I should have understood: the paradise is only in my heart.