Like Venice, there are no taxis in Anchang Town, Shaoxing, only taxis. As a water town, food, clothing, housing and transportation are all related to rivers. Unless otherwise stated, this article is all Huang Zhetu.
Walking 800 miles to explore a lake is like swimming in a mirror.
Jiangnan is full of water towns, but in Shaoxing, the proportion of water networks is incredible. From the map of Shaoxing, it is not difficult to find that except for the Huijishan area in the south, the old city is almost like a precise part, filling up the dry land outside the water network.
All the way from Yingenmen to Shaoxing North Station is a veritable "more bridges than roads". And along the way, we have been constantly "overtaking" people in the same direction on parallel water. On both sides of the bridge, there are all kinds of open lakes, thinking that the end is just around the corner, but it is quite clear without overlapping water surfaces. I remembered the words of Wang Xizhi, a fellow villager and book saint here, "Going up the mountain yin road is like swimming in the mirror". No wonder another Shaoxing celebrity, Qiu Jin, is the heroine of Jianhu. Mirror, mirror also.
In addition to the southern Huiji mountain area, the northern part of Shaoxing, with dense water network, enters and penetrates into Hangzhou and Ningbo from the east and west sides respectively, belonging to Jianhu water system. Another rural sage called it "800 Hu", which is not the poet's exaggeration. It is also said that Jianhu Lake is the abbreviation of Hejian Lake, and it is also the heartfelt love and commemoration of Shaoxing people for their hometown, the famous Tang Dynasty.
? Guicha Lake is the core and essence of Jianhu water system.
Shaoxing section of the East Zhejiang Canal connects all lakes, with a total length of 100 km. The canal runs through Shaoxing ancient city from west to east, and Fuhe River from south to north cuts a cross knife for watermelons in Fucheng. Because the Fuhe River was cut irregularly by God, the straight canal dug manually later borrowed the section from Xiaojiang Bridge to Dajiang Bridge of Fuhe River.
What is commendable is that it is not only the canal that remains, but also the slow pace of ships coming and going, as well as dozens of kilometers of boat lanes in total. With the expansion of the city, most road sections are now hidden in the city. I don't know if the park path with very realistic antique effect in the green room will be mistaken for the road of the tracker.
Under the guidance of an old Shaoxing man, I came to Guicha Lake (pronounced "Angsang"), an original and free "Zhenjian Lake". This lake has been rich since ancient times? Named after tea. This unusual fish is actually familiar to most people in China: Shanghainese call it stickleback, and the more famous name in Sichuan hot pot is yellow spicy diced fish.
? Guicha Lake is located in the center of Jianhu water system, surrounded by dense forests all the year round, far away from traffic arteries, so it has not been developed except for two farmhouses and an abandoned expansion base. And it was conceived in the inner room, and no one knew her? Tea Lake avoids the pond. The stone tablet of "China People's Cultural Relics Protection Unit" stands at the entrance of the south bank of the pond.
Avoiding ponds in Shaoxing can be said to be of great learning. It is also common in typhoon shelters in coastal areas and fiber runways inseparable from ancient canals, and has the functions of these two completely different things at the same time.
The national treasure pond refuge is as valuable as history in technology.
First, the log foundation of Eternal Prison is laid under the water, just like when Venice was built. In this way, the water system itself is still connected, but the speed of water has changed subtly, and the lake is divided into dangerous areas and safe areas. There are tens of millions of stone slabs more than one meter wide on the wooden foundation for trackers and others to walk back and forth, at least in two directions. On the pond-avoiding trail with a cumulative length of more than three kilometers, a bridge is set every 500 meters, which is enough for small boats to pass through the bridge opening, especially when the storm strikes, and the boats can enter the nearby safe area to shelter from the wind.
After more than 500 years of natural and man-made losses, the pond shelter is still as strong as before. When it's calm, I still feel a little taken for granted. As a result, I was immediately educated by facts and saw the wisdom and strength of my ancestors. I saw a sudden storm, and the mirror-like lake turned into black iron. Seeing that the rainstorm is coming, the angler on one side of the danger zone quickly shifts his position to the other side, and the safe zone side just puts on his raincoat. As for the lakes on both sides of the pond, sure enough, its movement is the difference between virgins and rabbits.
The pace of life in Vietnam is still leisurely and enviable.
A bowl of Shaoxing wine
This unique water resource has become the capital of production and military affairs in this area since the Spring and Autumn Period, and it has even competed with the Central Plains for hegemony. Vietnamese are naturally good at amphibious warfare, and Man Cang is a land of plenty, so they have surplus grain and spare capacity to make wine. With the shortage of ace products such as alcohol, this place has completed the early capital accumulation faster. Shaoxing has thus become a typical example of getting rich first in history.
Yellow rice wine is recognized not only in the north and south of the country, but also in Shaoxing, from Japan to Nanyang. This place name is synonymous with wine, because the biggest secret recipe can't be stolen-Jianhu water. I once talked with an old man from Zhejiang in Taiwan Province Province. He said: "Now we only drink Jinmen sorghum. After leaving home, Shaoxing wine brewed again is not that taste. "
Qiu Jin, a good drinker, once wrote, "I don't hesitate to buy a treasure knife, but it's just as good to exchange mink and fur for wine. Take care of your own blood, sprinkle with the poem "You can still transform Bi Tao", and often dance swords after drinking, "Dance in a circle and shine in a room".
Xu Xilin's town, the yellow wine town blessed by Ma Yun, has a bright future.
On the occasion of the 35th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Japan, Japan once produced a food film "Sweet Sweet Happiness" with the theme of Shaoxing wine, and set the protagonist as a Japanese chef born here, and went here to film the brewing process. Tatsuya Fuji, an old actor who plays Master Wang, also deliberately learned a few local dialects, which is impressive.
"The Fragrance of Happiness" stills data map
Today, the more famous identity here is the online celebrity rice wine town that Ma Yun is optimistic about. "Breeze" tasted the yellow wine popsicle here and happily left a "jade photo". This place has been drunk for thousands of years-"Siming fanatic" He, "Savage" Lu You and the famous "Bold" Xinhai Revolutionary Party Xu Xilin are all rich guests in this hometown. Today, in Xu Xilin's former residence, he still keeps his old wine glasses.
Little known is that the wine country has also raised the older generation of "Jianhu women". The right of the last empress in Song Dynasty is one of them. At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the building was about to collapse, and ministers surrendered and fled. The whole queen who came out of Dongpu country sold her jewelry and went back to her hometown to sell wine to comfort her morale.
Just like the nickname of yellow rice wine, the elders in Beijing and Tianjin used to call Zhu "filial piety wine", and the allusions came from it. It turns out that the playful Ming Wuzong, in addition to leaving the story of the prince and the showgirl in Datong, came here anonymously. The best wine for a dragon's stomach comes from a widowed and self-reliant mother-in-law. This time, the romantic emperor not only didn't do anything ridiculous, but also gave the winery a filial name. Until the Republic of China, Zhu in Xiaozhen Winery was the top brand in China. It is worth mentioning that today's Dongpu wine industry is headed by the descendants of Yu. Right? You'll know when you taste it.
Now, as one of the first small towns with the characteristics of online celebrities in the province of online celebrity economy, Dongpu Yellow Rice Wine Town still retains the habit of being headed by women in the past. Just visit a small shop and have a dish of fresh fish sauce, not for eating, but for tasting wine. Elder sister not only has no service attitude, but also has the frankness of Jianhu Woman. Just taste every Shaoxing wine and sit down with the food to calculate the money!
Dongpu yellow rice wine town still generally retains the ancient style of female generals selling wine.
The most smelly and fragrant.
In addition to Fucheng, Shaoxing suburbs are also known as "Golden Ke Qiao and Silver Anchang". Today, Ke Qiao has become a new sub-center of the city, but it still stays in Anchang, which is 2 kilometers in circumference and left by the Song Dynasty. It still retains the quiet face of the ancient town and the lingering smell of the old days.
Anchang, known as Xiao Shaoxing, is also surrounded by a city, and the only difference between Anchang and Fucheng is that the main entrance of Anchang is in the east. After getting started, there are three wind and rain bridges on Zhenkoukou Road, with different shapes, climbing, twists and turns and perfection, representing the three States of home. In ancient times, when people got married here, Wu Peng's boat with red flags had to bypass these three bridges in turn. Today, people in Shaoxing and even Hangzhou get married, and some people come here to buy lottery tickets.
Three beautiful wind and rain bridges show the strength of Anchang Town's "master economy".
It is not so much a state of family life as a state of professional life. The relative abundance of materials has liberated a large number of young people from the single farm work that has stayed at home since ancient times. Besides, compared with Shaoxing Fucheng, Anchang is much closer and more convenient to the provincial capital and traffic arteries. Therefore, local children regard reading and going out to work as the right way.
"The articles in the world are from Zhejiang, and Shaoxing is the most famous." In fact, there is also the second half of the sentence, "There is a teacher outside the teacher, and the teacher in the world comes from Anchang." Shaoxing touts, famous, even changed the history of China, with a total number of more than 20,000 people, most of whom are Anchang people. The size of this town has not exceeded the level of 10 thousand people.
The scenery and buildings here can be seen everywhere, as well as the professional characteristics of the touts who hide in the second hall, but are the masters. The houses on both sides of the main streets of towns along the river seem ordinary, but in fact they are exquisite and strong enough to withstand the test of natural and man-made disasters. Walking in, it is a low-key strength group with a unique cave.
Skantang, the deepest part of the main street, has become the only museum in China. The former owner called Lou Xintian, who was called "China's last tout".
The so-called "Sigan" is not only the "rank and rank Sigan, faint Nanshan" in the Book of Songs, but also represents the spiritual pursuit of literati and the gentle and capable professional requirements. The greatest gentleness is national character, and the greatest ability is loyalty to the country. Born in the Qing Dynasty, he has been serving the Anti-Japanese War and is worthy of these two words.
Anchang is famous all over the country, thanks to "China on the Tip of the Tongue", I went there to shoot Purenchang Sauce Garden for a hundred years. In fact, as early as many years ago, Hangzhou people were used to shopping in Anchangda on weekends. In addition to pickles, there are all kinds of bags of rotten meat in the sauce garden. Every street in Anchang, as long as it can hang things, must be filled with all kinds of chicken, duck, sausage, bacon and even pig heads. As for stinky white gourd, stinky amaranth and stinky tofu, most of them were eliminated at the local dinner table in Anchang.
"China on the Tip of the Tongue" made all China people smell the sauce of Renchang Sauce Garden through the screen.
Why in Jiangnan, which is famous for its overall lightness, there will be such a wonderful taste of generations of collective taste as Anchang? The reason is simple: there is a huge group going out to study and work. However, at all times and in all countries, the requirements for dishes are easy to carry, easy to store, and not afraid of deterioration, especially in ancient times when there was no refrigeration and freezing means. Therefore, in the past, when recruiting teachers, you didn't have to take the oral test and written test of business ability, or even listen to the accent. Forget it, invite people to dinner before doing work: can you eat three stinks without changing your face? Well, welcome to join Master An Chang's team! Then, let's use the rotten sauce and brine from my hometown to dry this full Shao Chen first.
Postscript: * * * Enjoy the economic base camp, convenient!
Taking Anchang as the last stop, I took a ten-minute bus ride to Xiaoshan Airport, full of tightly packed sauced ducks, pickles and yellow wine. The female driver looks familiar. She and I went shopping in Renchang Sauce Garden just now.
The elder sister from Hangzhou is a native of Xiaoshan. She is used to buying goods from buy buy in Chang on a regular basis. She said, "It is much more convenient to go to Xiaoshan Airport here than from Hangzhou." Although Xiaoshan people have risen to the provincial capital, they are actually closer to Shaoxing in diet, accent and culture. "For you, I'll take one back to Hangzhou. Weekly purchases are smooth and smooth, not too perfect. "
Nowadays, domestic tourism does not need cash at all, which is not news. However, whether you go to the countryside or even cross the city, you can get it completely by car, almost on call. Even in remote areas, there are only people waiting for the bus, and no one is waiting for the bus. It's rare to be so convenient. Close to the capital of network economy, there is also the integration of Hangzhou and Shaoxing under the east wind of the 2022 Hangzhou Asian Games, so it will be more convenient to travel to Shaoxing in the future.