Diebu is a square county, and the central square constitutes the core of people's lives. There are banks (generally China Agricultural Bank in Gannan and Gansu Rural Credit Cooperative), hotels and restaurants. In physical space, the walking distance from the central square to all parts of the county is equal.
South of the central square is Bailong River, and the river beach is an ideal place for urban expansion. Diebu County is building a dam along the Bailong River, extending the town to Bailong River. On the south bank of Bailong River, there are no houses, but towering spruces.
From 65438 to 0935, the Chinese Red Army of Workers and Peasants crossed Diebu twice and won the key victory in the famous Lazikou Campaign, which was also the most crucial battle for the Red Army to enter Gansu in the Long March. Since then, "Red Lazikou" has become one of the business cards of Diebu Tourism.
Bird's-eye view of Diebu County from Dharma Temple; all the articles are pictures of Ding.
The resident Dianga Town of Diebu County is located on the north bank of Bailong River, surrounded by green trees, and a main street-Lazikou Street runs through the east and west. The Dian Ga Temple of the Yellow Sect is at the westernmost end, and the Laluzuocang Temple of the Bonism is at the easternmost end. The branches on both sides of the main street are going up and down, and the car stops along the ramp, which is very European.
There is no bus in the county, and the taxi goes straight for two yuan to three yuan.
Zhuoni to Diebu
Although Zhuoni and Diebu belong to Zhuoni Tusi in history, from Zhuoni to Diebu County, they all pass through Min County of Dingxi City.
In fact, the territory of Zhuoni Tusi includes not only Zhuoni and Diebu, but also some mountainous areas in Lintan County and Zhouqu County, as well as Tibetan areas at the junction of Sichuan and Gansu, which is slightly smaller than Switzerland. Here is a blend of Tibetan and Chinese, which looks like Tibetan areas, but there are many habits of Han people in life. In addition, Diebu also has Bonism belief, and most Bonism temples in southern Jiangxi are located here.
My university teacher, Mr. Zheng Yang, is the eldest son of the last Johnny Toast. His family has a legendary relationship with the famous American botanist Joseph Charles Francis Rock. 1925, my grandfather, 19 generation of Zhuoni Tusi Yang, took Luo in Zhuoni Temple and helped him complete his inspection in Zhuoni and Diebu. In two years, Locke took nearly a thousand photos, left a lot of written materials and recorded the local society and nature.
The undulating terrain of Zagana village in Diebu
Diebu is rich in water resources, with great altitude difference and extremely rich in plant resources. Many China plant specimens in American museums today were collected by Locke in Diebu. Locke found at least 10 species of spruce in Diebu, while there were only 17 species of spruce in China.
Locke's travelogue Living in Jonny Abbey was later published in National Geographic. It is inferred that the writer Hilton created the novel "The Lost Horizon" based on these pictures and descriptions, and her fantasy of Shangri-La, the secret of the East, caused a sensation in the western world.
1 1 years ago, there was only one shuttle bus from Minxian to Diebu every day. This bus will cross the iron ruler Liangyakou at an altitude of 3,200m and enter Lazikou. Many passengers got on the bus along the way, and the aisle was filled with small benches. I especially remember that the driver tried to leave me and my companions at Liangyakou, iron ruler, in order to avoid the traffic police inspection.
Now, except for the fir forest on the opposite mountain, Diebu County in my memory has completely changed, and everything has become more neat and orderly. The influx of investors and construction teams from Gansu and Sichuan provinces has also brought catering brands from the two places. The central square is surrounded by newly-built hotels and restaurants. Visitors from Zhaga are welcome. There is also a Diebu County Museum near the central square, but according to personal experience, in Northwest County, you have to take a chance whether the museum opens or not.
Take the road of Locke again
Locke once stood in the foggy Zaga and said, "I have never seen such beautiful scenery in my life. If the author of Genesis sees the beautiful scenery of Diebu, he will put the birthplace of Adam and Eve here ... Diebu is amazing. If I don't photograph this wonderful place, I will feel a sin. "
The stone walls of Zagana form a natural fortress.
Zhagana is only 28 kilometers away from Diebu County. It consists of four natural villages, Dongwa, Yeri, Dali and Tiba, and a Lasang Temple. Surrounded by spectacular stone walls, it looks like a huge palace on a grand scale and an ancient city built on natural rock walls. Influenced by geomantic omen, Zhagana faces south and is surrounded by mountains. At the same time, it follows the tradition of living in Tibetan temples.
Zha ga na de sofa Wu
The architecture of Zagana village is also very special. They are generally two-story or three-story "sofa houses". The roof is made of pine boards arranged like fish scales. The first floor is the grazing fence, living room, living room or lecture hall, and the second floor is the sun dam and storage room. But now most of them are changed into inns. Because of the undulating mountains, you can see the unique Shicheng landscape from the windows of different rooms.
Zhaga was once an important post station on the Taodie ancient road. With the abandonment of the ancient Tuo Road, it once became an inaccessible and dangerous forbidden area.
From Zhuoni in Guanggai Mountain to Zhagana in Diebu, it was once a classic route for Locke to investigate plants, birds and geography, and was called "Locke's Road" by later generations.
The starting point of hiking is "a scenic spot"
The starting point of Zhaga, "Lok Road", was originally a winding and narrow canyon tunnel, where herdsmen's horses and backpackers stepped on muddy paths, accompanied by waterfalls and streams on both sides.
Nowadays, the path has become an interval lane, an "ecological plank road" and a cement stone bridge. But the most ordinary tourists will not buy it. They complained all the way that the scenery was mediocre and they were not interested in history and nature itself. Even if the "Locke Road" is fully developed, I am afraid it will be difficult to please them.
From the "first sight", the interval lane has changed back to the only way for hikers. Waterfalls and talc areas have become magnificent, fir forests are dense, and the hanging walls go straight into the sky. Go to the end of the talc area, detour up the hill along the horse path, and reach a stone pile full of prayer flags-the Temple of the King of God.
Go straight ahead until you come to a stream, where the road is cut off by a landslide, and then you can see a row of bare stone forests, just like a Gothic church. Ahead is the famous Shimen. Shimen is the most prominent landmark of Minshan Mountain, which is composed of red limestone, like a deep crack in Minshan Mountain.
Shimen valley on Locke road
According to historical records, Locke's team suffered a serious landslide near Shimen and was forced to be trapped in this crescent-shaped canyon, but the surrounding plants attracted him like magic. There are all kinds of exotic poppies, asters, primroses, yellow saxifrage, different colors of Saussurea involucrata, Cynanchum atratum, aconite poison and gentian.
Near the village entrance of Zhalugou or Chalugou, there are dense trees on the hillside and rich purple azaleas and lavender beside the stream, forming a natural fence.
Over the hillside, there is a stranger side. The forest is barren, but the pink leguminous plants have the tenacious vitality of cactus.
Poppy is one of the precious flower varieties on the plateau. Locke and his expedition once went deep into the areas where poppies were grown in Tibetan areas. When he climbed over the cliff, he saw the local girls weaving poppies into garlands and taking them with them.
Locke's joy in arriving in Zhaga after hardships is beyond words: "The first night in Zhaga was wonderful. Clouds gather together, and peaks rise into the sky. It looks like an island embedded in the ocean. Birds are singing around, a breeze is blowing from the ear, and the quiet forest is embedded in the green velvet grass. Even the air smells intoxicating ... "
Plant Diversity Caused by Vertical Altitude Change
Starting from Zhagana, the road is still very difficult and dangerous, and the altitude rises vertically 1 100 meters a day. On the way, the rubber sole of one of my shoes fell off completely, so I had to drag the shoe without sole to move on. This pair of shoes once accompanied me through the trip around Asia from Lhasa to Cairo, but stopped on Locke's road.
Zhagana retains the wooden bridge on the original pastoral road.
The source of Bailong River
70km west of Diebu, langmusi is the source of Bailong River. According to legend, the name of "Langmu" is related to the fairy cave in Bailong River Canyon. From Diebu to Bailong River, it is a golden route of Gannan Ring Road and also passes through a section of Sichuan border.
A small town in langmusi surrounded by mountains.
Langmusi is not only a temple, but also a small town located at the junction of Sichuan and Gansu provinces.
The so-called provincial boundary is not the Bailong River or the street as described in most materials, but the town is divided into two parts along the northwest-southeast, with Luqu in Gansu Province in the northeast and ruoergai county in Sichuan Province in the southwest. There is a Tibetan Buddhist temple on each side, both of which call themselves "the Great Tibetan langmusi".
There is also a China Mosque in Huimin Village in Sichuan. Most Muslims in langmusi come from Lintan. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, caravans from Lintan and Linxia entered Sichuan via langmusi, and used langmusi as a transit point for the exchange of livestock products in Gannan and daily necessities in the mainland.
An admirer of Okura Langmugedi
On my trip back to langmusi, I met an old German man who came by bike from Huangnan, Qinghai. He has been to langmusi more than a dozen times. When the sun went down in langmusi, we looked at the town surrounded by smoke from kitchen chimneys on the hillside. We miss the past days and still have tears in our eyes.
More than ten years ago, I broke into Gannan with my bags on my back again and again, and got into remote villages and towns with a group of foreigners holding the travel bible Lonely Planet. Later, it became a "forbidden area" again, followed by the decline of backpack culture, and we witnessed the end of the hippie era.
"Little Switzerland in the East" is not a hollow name. Langmusi used to be a backpacker's private home. At least in that golden age, countless young people from all over the world followed the guide to come here, sat in the square in front of the Tripitaka Hall, watched the monks debate the scriptures, climbed up the Bailong River and climbed up Gai Hua to wait for the sunset.
Dacang Langmugedi Temple after the Rain
Later, the fate of langmusi, like all small towns discovered by hippies, was eroded by commercialization, and backpackers gradually moved away. In addition, after the Jiuzhaigou earthquake, the number of tourists from northern Sichuan to langmusi decreased greatly. In order to revive the tourism industry, langmusi has become a part of Gannan Ring Road for group tourists. A large tourist center has been built outside the town, and the once independent quiet town has become a noisy tourist reception point.
The scenery of youth travel is no longer, people's interest in tourist destinations is replaced by mobile phone photos and punching cards, and tourists' taste is dominated by online celebrity stores and leaderboards. However, I still miss the time when, like Locke, I personally measured every inch of land with my feet and distinguished every plant and animal.
(Contact us/submission email: sjdl_2020@ 163.com)
Proofreading: Zhang Yan