This is Wagner's seclusion.

Text/Figure Tang Ruojun

Wagner likes traveling as much as the ancient literati in China. At that time, when the transportation was basically carriage, he traveled extensively in Italy, Switzerland and France, not only looking for creative inspiration, but also harvesting love and making invitations. Among them, Switzerland, especially Lucerne, witnessed the most prosperous chapter in Wagner's life. There, Wagner's career and family achieved a double harvest.

Switzerland went into exile.

Switzerland is dominated by lakes and mountains, and the French-speaking, German-speaking and Italian-speaking areas meet with the idealists of neighboring countries, forming a treasure trove of geomantic omen surrounded by France, Germany, Austria and Italy.

Many people stop because of the scenery in Switzerland, but Wagner's original intention of visiting Switzerland may not be so romantic. 1848, a revolution swept across the European continent, and bonfires burned for a long time. Wagner in Dresden sided with the revolutionaries and took part in the uprising in May 1849. After the failure of the uprising, Wagner was also wanted and became a "court criminal" in Saxony, which belonged to Dresden. Under the mediation of his good friend and predecessor Liszt, Wagner came to Switzerland with a fake passport and began his exile.

In Switzerland, Wagner and his wife Mina stayed in Zurich for a period of time, writing articles to review the revolutionary experience, and writing monographs such as Art and Revolution and Future Works of Art and Opera. In addition, he made friends with Otto Wesendonk, a wealthy businessman. Out of admiration for Wagner, Otto set aside a piece of land in his garden in 1852 and built a country house for Wagner's family to use.

During his close relationship with the Wesendonk family, Wagner became the teacher of Otto's wife Mathilde. The passionate love for Mathilde (also known as unrequited love) is so strong that the composer temporarily shelved the writing of the four-part The Ring of Nibelungen and devoted himself to the creation of Tristan and isolde, which is an epoch-making love hymn. For that kind of vigorous feeling, Wagner also specially wrote a suite of five songs, Song of Wesendonk, as a pocket watch.

1858, Wagner moved to Venice, Italy. Although the composer's love for Mediterranean sunshine and enthusiasm is reflected in his nine trips to Italy, during which he briefly transited to Paris and returned to Germany, Switzerland, which is rich in armor, is still his residence. Soon he returned to Switzerland.

Liu Sen's diligent creation by the lake.

1In March, 859, Wagner came to Lucerne and lived by the Lake Lucerne, next to Schweizehoff at the Central Railway Station and the pier, in order to complete his long-term love opera Tristan and isolde. Two months ago, he lived in the balcony suite on the third floor of the main building, but because the cars and pedestrians on the main street under the balcony were too noisy, he moved to Room 207 of the South Building. The room on the second floor is much smaller than the suite, but it is also quieter. With the help of the waiter, Wagner decorated the room to his liking.

Swiss Palace Hotel is a five-star luxury hotel with a long history. It was renovated in 2008, but it still retains an antique atmosphere. Now it is one of the designated reception hotels for big-name musicians in Lucerne Music Festival. The hotel is strategically located, close to transportation hub, pedestrian street and Jiaotang Bridge. Even if you don't stay in a hotel, you can enjoy a cup of fragrant handmade coffee in the luxurious lobby, and the price is less than the usual Starbucks cup. By the way, sit on the spacious sofa and imagine the cultural celebrities stopping at the hotel.

1878 In the summer, American writer Mark Twain stayed here for ten days. The following is the scenery outside his window: "Lucerne is a charming place. The city begins at the end of the water, and the hotels line up and extend to two or three hills. It is crowded with people, seemingly chaotic but pleasant scenery. What you see is the deep wall of the house, red bricks, sloping windows, towering spires, sporadic ancient arches built along the wall, and the old town square reinforced with hard stones. " In addition, Mark Twain also mentioned that there are two rows of low street trees in front of the hotel. Behind the trees is the beautiful Lake Lucerne, and the snow caps of the mountains are faintly visible in the distance.

If you want to further experience Wagner's life experience, you might as well stay in a hotel. 20 18 1 month, I will stay here for a few nights. In the main building facing the lake view room of Lucerne Lake, open the window, with lakes and mountains in the distance and traffic below. The scene is exactly as described by American writers. In order to emphasize the deep relationship between hotel and music, the electronic keyhole of the room is made into the shape of notes, and the prompt sound when swiping the card to open the door is also a world-famous song.

I believe that the fans who live in the hotel are more concerned about its proud history. 1859 In August, Wagner finished the creation of Tristan and isolde in the hotel. The hotel archives vividly record the whole creative process: "In order to maintain a quiet creative environment, the hotel doorman blocked the side door leading to the next room with a mattress, and the hotel prohibited children from playing on the second floor. On the nearby peaks of Reggie Mountain and Pilatus Mountain, Wagner drew inspiration from nature. In the hotel garden, he also enjoyed the landscape paintings exhibited by the painter Jacob Joseph Zerg. Liszt sent a 24-year-old young composer, Felix Dresek, to accompany Wagner, and they walked, rode and talked together. One morning in August, they made an appointment at Mount Pilatus, but Wagner sat in front of the piano for six hours. At this moment, there came the sound of knocking at the door of Dreisek's house. Wagner said that he would finish the opera soon, and Dressed in cycling clothes, Dresek sat by and witnessed the history. At 4: 30 in the afternoon, Wagner finished Tristan and isolde. " 1In June, 865, King Ludwig II of Bavaria contributed to the premiere of the play in Munich, with Hans von Piro as the conductor. Wagner's creation and family entered a new era with this play.

Blend mountains and rivers into music.

Wagner's "Siegfried Pastoral" is an extremely rare chamber music work, with a peaceful melody and quiet atmosphere, which is unique among his many works famous for large orchestral music. The full name of the work is Tribschen Pastoral Accompanied by Birds and Golden Sunrise, as Wagner of Cosima as a Symphony Birthday Greeting Gift, which shows the great amount of information.

Wagner knew Liszt's daughter Kosima as early as Zurich, when her husband was conductor Paul. 1In April, 866, Wagner returned to Lucerne, moved to Shencheng, Tribbe, half an hour's drive from Lucerne, and lived in a three-story country house. The villa is surrounded by mountains and waters, and falls along the mountains. Behind it is a huge hydrophilic lawn, facing the lake, with a total area of 30 thousand square meters. After living here for six years, Kosima came here many times and finally decided to move to a place where she was married and had children. They got married after Wagner gave birth to his son Siegfried. The wedding church St. Matthew Church is next to the Swiss Palace Hotel.

Siegfried Pastoral is a piece of music written by Wagner for the birth of his beloved son. 1in the early morning of February 25th, 870, this piece of music was played by 13 musicians scattered on the stairs of the villa, and Kosima enjoyed the premiere of this piece on the platform of the stairs.

Nowadays, tourists can "visit" the scene more than 100 years ago on the stair corner platform like Kosima. Wagner's former residence, where he lived for six years, was converted into Wagner Museum. Take a few buses from Lucerne Central Railway Station and get off at valta Station, and walk along the signs for about ten minutes. On the way down the mountain, the first thing you see is a white villa and a lively coffee teahouse under the main entrance, with a huge Wagner head stone carving on one side.

The exhibition hall on the first floor is a regular exhibition, showing the French Elad grand piano played by Wagner. On this piano, he completed the creation of "The Famous Singer of Nuremberg" on June 24th, 867/kloc-0. In addition, there are several brass instruments related to Wagner, manuscripts or photocopies of the above-mentioned series of German works he created in Zurich, and many oil paintings that show his life. Climb the stairs covered with red carpet for the first performance of "Pastoral". The second floor is a special exhibition area, which changes its theme every year.

I have been to Tribschen many times, and my favorite special exhibition is "Anime Wagner" from 20 17 to 20 18. The curator used animation to present the eccentric side of the composer's life and condensed his life into a 40-page cartoon Wagner. Comic books written by Andreas Warig and drawn by Flaviat Scuderi provide an interesting perspective on Wazir's life. In addition, coloring cards and drawing boards specially prepared for children, as well as ten-step picture books for drawing Wagner's head, have turned the heavy topic of music into an interactive game between parents and children.

From 1866 to 1872, Wagner lived in Shencheng, Tribbe, where flowers and birds are blooming, and completed the Siegfried Pastoral, and the melody appeared in four plays many times. In addition, he also began to write "Twilight of the Gods". Like wotan, he wandered between the mountains and rivers of Lucerne. There is reason to believe that Mount Pilatus became the Valkyria Mountain and Varhala in The Ring, while the lush shade of Lucerne became Siegfried's forest.

He lives under the same roof as his ex-wife's children, Kosima's and Poirot's children, and his children born with Kosima. The two separated extended families were happy and attracted Ludwig II, Nietzsche and her husband Liszt to visit.

Switzerland is not only Wagner's seclusion, but also witnessed the heyday of composer's creation. 1872, with firm ideals and incomparable faith in his theater, Wagner moved his family back to Germany from Switzerland, which opened the glory of Bayreuth.