Crab claw orchid is an epiphytic shrub. The leafy stems are flat and knobby, plump, ovoid, bright green, truncated at the top and coarsely serrated at the edge. Peanuts are at the top of the stem, and the perianth is open and rolled back. Colors are lavender, yellow, red, pure white, pink, orange and bicolor.
Crab claw orchid is native to Brazil in South America. It belongs to epiphytic cactus, which is often epiphytic on trees or wet valleys in natural environment, so the cultivation environment requires semi-cloudy and semi-wet. Avoid sun and rain in summer, and keep warm and get enough light in winter. The soil needs a mixture of fertile humus, peat and coarse sand, and the pH value is between 5.5 and 6.5.
The optimum temperature for the growth period of Crab Claw Orchid is 18 ~ 23℃, and the suitable flowering temperature is 10 ~ 15℃, not exceeding 25℃. It is best to maintain 15℃, and the winter temperature is not lower than 10℃. Crab claw orchid is a short-day plant, so it can germinate and bloom under short-day conditions. Crab claw orchid originated from bird pollination, and indoor cultivation needs artificial pollination to bear fruit normally.
The optimum growth temperature is 15℃ ~ 32℃, and it will enter a dormant state when the temperature is above 33℃ in hot summer. Avoid cold cream. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 65438 00℃. In winter, when the temperature drops below 7℃, it will go into hibernation. If the ambient temperature is close to 4℃, it will freeze to death.
In the growing season of early spring or late autumn (the highest temperature at noon is not higher than 28℃, and the lowest temperature at night is not lower than 15℃), cut off leaves or stems (with 3-4 leaf nodes), insert the wound into the substrate after drying, and spray the cuttings and substrate slightly. As long as the substrate is not excessively dry or flooded, roots and new buds can grow rapidly. When the temperature is high in late spring and early autumn, cuttings are easy to rot, so it is best not to carry out cuttings.
When the seedlings are potted, put 2-2cm thick coarse-grained substrate or ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as the filter layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer with a thickness of about 1-2cm as the base fertilizer, then cover a layer of substrate with a thickness of about 1-2cm, and then put in plants to separate the fertilizer from the roots to avoid burning the roots.
The base of the upper basin can be one of the following. Vegetable soil: slag 3:1; Or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (shavings) 4:1:2; Or one of paddy soil, pond sludge and humus soil. Or peat+perlite+ceramsite =2 parts +2 parts+1 part; Vegetable garden soil+slag =3 parts+1 part; Peat+slag+ceramsite =2 parts +2 parts+1 part; Sawdust+vermiculite+medium coarse river sand =2 portions +2 portions+1 portion. After the basin is finished, water it once and maintain it in a slightly cool environment for a week.
I like dry air environment, rainy days last too long, and I am easily infected by germs. Afraid of rain, keep the leaves dry at night. The optimum air relative humidity is 40 ~ 60%.
It has strong drought tolerance and can grow under dry environmental conditions, but this does not mean that it is not watered or fertilized; Its roots are afraid of water stains. If there is water in the flowerpot, or watering and fertilizing too frequently, it is easy to cause root rot. The principle of fertilizing and watering it is "dry and wet alternately, dry thoroughly, no watering, and drenching thoroughly". When fertilizing and watering it, it is necessary to avoid wetting the plant during the day.
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