1. new cylinder disinfection: clean the new cylinder, disinfect it with salt, and clean it 1-2 times. Fill the master cylinder with water, put water quality stabilizer in the master cylinder, and pump air into the master cylinder with an air pump. The filter material should be properly placed in the bottom cylinder, but it is suggested that the filter material should not be too full when the cylinder is opened in the early stage, and the normal filter material should be filled with 1/2. The most effective nitrifying bacteria culture in the early stage comes from white cotton, biochemical cotton and rattan cotton, and more cotton can be put; However, the rest of the biological rings, ceramic rings, infrared rays, timely balls and the like are put as little as possible, and can be added gradually in the later stage.
At this time, you don't need to turn on the main water pump to run your fish tank. The bottom cylinder adopts a single small water pump, and the filter cartridge can choose a water pump of 120CM- 150CM. /kloc-3000L can be selected for those above 0/50 cm, but it is still recommended that the water pump should not be too large. A separate small water pump is put into the last stage water pump area of the bottom pond, and the effluent of the water pump is connected by a hose and then put into the first stage physical area, forming a framework of an independent culture nitrification system in the bottom pond. On the first day, just put13 water in the bottom tank to stabilize the water quality, and turn on the water pump and heating rod.
3. After the filter cartridge runs for 3-5 days, start the main cartridge water pump, and the separate small water pump stops running. Put the fish in the tank and observe the water quality and the fish's body surface. If fishing in the tank is ok, arowana can be released in 2-3 days.
When there are one or more fish tanks, if you buy a new fish tank, you can buy filter materials in advance. Put the filter material at the bottom of the old cylinder or at the filter cylinder water pump in the main cylinder. After the new cylinder comes home, it is disinfected with salt and washed with water 1-2 times. Put about 1/3 of fresh water in the cylinder. Add water stabilizer, pump air from the main cylinder, and don't turn on the water pump. After running for 24 hours, pump the water from the old cylinder into the new cylinder with a separate water pump and fill it up (this amount is controlled by yourself, and the water exchange rate of a mature cylinder can be controlled at 1/3 to 1/2. If the water in the new tank is not enough, it can be replenished with new water. Take out 1-2 pieces of white cotton from the old cylinder and put them into the primary filter of the new cylinder. At this time, new cotton can be added to fill the first-stage physical area.
Turn on the heating rod, turn on the water pump to run the new cylinder for 48 hours, then take out the filter material from the old cylinder (prepared for the new cylinder) and put it into the new cylinder, and add some high-quality nitrifying bacteria (50% of the standard amount). At the same time, put the fish into the tank, continue to run for 3-5 days, and observe the changes of water quality and fish surface, if there is no abnormality. The day before the dragon release, change the water to 1/4, and add 50% nitrifying bacteria, 1‰ or 2‰ sea salt. Just eat fish the next day.
Well-nourished water can effectively avoid many diseases, such as water quality-induced arowana water mold, arowana white spot disease and so on.
Fish tank, a kind of water tank for live fish, has a transparent cylinder, mostly made of glass, and can also be used to raise tropical fish or goldfish for viewing.
The fish tank is not only the home of fish, but also the enjoyment of family life. The flawless double-layer float glass not only creates a warm home for fish, but also ensures the safety of the overall living environment. Fish tank is an indispensable ornament in home geomantic omen, which is perfectly combined with space and is the soul Zen master in home, office and commercial space.
Daily maintenance:
First, control the stable water quality.
1. Stable salinity
When preparing a box of seawater at first, just pay attention to the proportion that 30 liters of seawater can be prepared per kilogram of seawater salt. The pH value of prepared seawater is mostly maintained at 8.0 ~ 8.4, and the density is 1.020 ~ 1.024. The content of nitrite is lower than 0.65438 0 mg/L. After the aquarium is operated, the water will evaporate at ordinary times, which will lower the water level and increase the density of water day by day. Need to replenish fresh water regularly. After replenishing fresh water, check whether the density of water is appropriate.
It is emphasized that the temperature must be lower than 25℃ when measuring salinity. At present, the most advanced equipment for measuring salt content is the conductivity meter for measuring seawater. The conductivity of standard seawater should be between 47 ~ 5 1 millisiemens/cm, and we usually use a buoy or a box densimeter.
2. Stable pH value
Anyone who has raised ornamental fish in seawater knows that it is extremely important to maintain a stable pH in the aquarium. Because the pH value of the water in the aquarium will drop due to the residue of nitrite and nitrate, it must be tested regularly to avoid the deterioration of water quality, which will lead to discomfort and infection of fish. We should know that the common disease of large and small white spots in marine ornamental fish is mostly infected because of the excessive change of pH value. It is particularly important to note that the pH value should be adjusted and its changes should be monitored correctly during drug treatment, which will make it easier to control the white spots in marine fish.
Generally speaking, the pH value and the concentration of nitrite and nitrate should be detected once every two weeks, and the pH value should be kept between 7.9 and 8.3. If it is a newly established seawater aquarium, it is best to measure the pH value more. When the pH value of the water in the aquarium increases or decreases, it can be adjusted by using an alkali-increasing agent (increasing the pH value) or an acid-increasing agent (decreasing the pH value), but it should be done slowly, not too much at a time, generally not more than 0. 1. If the adjustment exceeds 0. 1, it can be done several times and gradually adjusted to the required pH value ... But if the water in the aquarium has just been adjusted and the pH value drops rapidly, it will remind you that you need to change the water cluster box.
3. Change the water locally on a regular basis
Nitrate cannot be decomposed by nitrifying bacteria, and some removal methods are too expensive. When nitrate accumulates to a certain extent, it will lead to a large number of algae such as Chaetoceros, Phaeocystis, Phagophagous algae and even red algae. This not only affects the beauty of the aquarium, but also does some harm to fish or creatures, thus destroying the ecological balance of the aquarium, leading to flooding and serious consequences. Therefore, in daily management, it is necessary to change water regularly and 1 0% seawater every month (using sand suction device to pump dirty water under the sand). Pay attention to slowly adding new seawater and pumping it in with a thin tube to avoid the fish being stimulated by the rapid change of water quality.
4. Check the filtration system regularly.
If the filter outside the box is used, be sure to connect the water pipe after cleaning. Note that the water pump can not only filter the water in the tank, but also pump the water out of the aquarium.
(2) Always check whether the water flowing out of the filter is normal and whether there is any blockage. In addition, the first layer of biological cotton or filter element that blocks dirt should be cleaned frequently and replaced regularly.
③ Activated carbon should be replaced regularly.
④ Regularly clean the dirt in the protein separator.
⑤ Clean the filter regularly (the method has been described above).
Suitable light Suitable light refers to the light that can maintain the survival and reproduction of unicellular algae in invertebrates. As we discussed, different creatures have different requirements for light, including strong light, medium light and weak light. For example, an aquarium with a length of 130 cm and a water depth of 60 cm is equipped with two 150 watt metal halogen lamps, which are 40 cm away from the water surface, and it is enough to irradiate 10 hour every day. You can compare whether your aquarium keeps proper lighting conditions.
Second, proper water flow.
1. Circulating water flow
Because nitrifying bacteria need to consume extremely high oxygen in the process of nitrification, how to send enough oxygen and organic matter to be decomposed in water evenly into the filter material in the process of water circulation and let nitrifying bacteria decompose effectively is an important consideration in the design of circulating water flow. We must realize that too much water will make nitrifying bacteria have no place to stand and cannot form a dense nitrification network. The water flow is too slow to transport oxygen and organic matter, resulting in some dead corners, anaerobic areas and unnecessary waste gas such as ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, which is not conducive to the stability of water quality.
2. Strong current
The movement of water flow can make the water in every place in the aquarium, such as corners, cracks, caves and corals, be constantly replaced. We must try to stop areas where water is still. The movement of water flow can make the metabolites of unicellular algae on invertebrates be eliminated by the movement of water flow. Organic food will also be sent to the vicinity of biological habitats because of the action of water flow, making them easier to eat.
To sum up, the water flow in the aquarium is very important, and it is ideal to use a circulating pump to make the circulation speed of the water flow in the aquarium reach at least 5 times per hour. It is best to use two pumps to change the direction of water flow every 6 hours and switch it regularly.
Application of active biostones;
Setting and maintaining living biological rocks (living coral reefs) is an important condition for establishing a perfect seawater aquarium. These living "stones" will give you "unexpected surprises" as long as you give them some time. Countless algae and creatures will grow again, making the small coral reef ecology an independent and complete biosphere again. With the existence of living corals, it will be easier for aquariums to cultivate marine ornamental fish and marine life. Why is this? We're still working on it, but it really works. This is an important matter.
These living stones are coral reef stones from the bottom of the sea, and there are a lot of marine life on them. When they are put into an aquarium, they can produce their natural ecological life when they are at the bottom of the sea. However, in the process of collection, treatment and transportation, these living stones are exposed to sunlight and wind, and many creatures die after contact with air. If they are directly put into the aquarium without treatment, the remains of these dead creatures need to be nitrated and decomposed in the aquarium. In the newly established aquarium, there are simply not enough nitrifying bacteria to nitrify such a large number of pollution sources, which will worsen the water quality into white turbidity and even produce odor. Therefore, the use of living biostones requires proper packaging, transportation and cleaning.
In the first 4 ~ 6 weeks, we regularly use the water sprayer to clean the living biological stones every week, so it is safe to release the cleaned living biological stones. Or use dry biostones, rinse them and put them in an aquarium. In a word, it is important to use living biostones, but we must pay attention to cleaning.
Check the water temperature:
To raise ornamental fish and invertebrates in tropical seawater, it is necessary to keep the temperature of the aquarium within the temperature range of natural tropical seawater, that is, between 25 and 27℃. When the temperature is lower than 20℃ or higher than 30℃, calcium corals will stop synthesizing calcium, and when the temperature exceeds 15 ~ 32℃, most corals will die. Therefore, in feeding management, cooling and heating equipment should be installed as appropriate to prepare for high temperature in summer and severe cold in winter. When heating the aquarium in winter, the heater with grounding wire should be used because of the high conductivity of seawater. So as to protect users. The best safety measure is to install a 24 volt low-voltage heating system.
References:
Fish tank-Baidu encyclopedia