Are there any legends about wine and Tianjin?

Origin of Zhigu Liquor and Tianjinwei

Zhigu comes first, then Tianjinwei.

After Jin destroyed Liao, it moved its capital to Yanjing (now Beijing) in 1 153, and changed Yanjing to Zhongdu. Due to the continuous development of water transport and salt industry, the Sanchahekou area where the North-South Canal meets the Haihe River is increasingly prosperous. At the end of the Jin Dynasty, in order to ensure the safety of salt storage and transportation in Zhongdu and Cao Cao, in the second year of Zhenyou (12 14), Zhigu Village was established in Sanchahekou. Therefore, the word "Zhigu" is the earliest name in the process of Tianjin's urban development, and Zhigu Village is the earliest building in Tianjin.

According to historical records, as early as the early Yuan Dynasty (19th year of Yuan Dynasty 1282), Tianjin liquor brewing industry tried to transport grain from south to north. The grain ship set sail from Liu Jiahe, Taicang, Jiangsu, crossed the ocean, entered zhi gu from Dagukou, and then took the inland river grain ship and transported it to Dadu (now Beijing) via the canal. Greater zhi gu is an important port for transporting grain from south to north. In the Yuan Dynasty, the words "take the official position" were engraved: "There is no good wine in the valley, but there is Dongyang famous wine in Haizhou." This shows that Tianjin could make wine as early as the early Yuan Dynasty, but it was not good enough. But beyond reproach, Greater zhi gu is the earliest wine-making area in the north. At that time, it was called "shochu", and the brewed sorghum liquor was called dry shochu. Historically, from the Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, people relied on the South-to-North Water Transfer Project to provide military supplies and food for the people. Therefore, it has been forbidden to make wine with grain in all parts of the north, and zhi gu is the closest place to the gathering place of grain transportation, so the shochu workshop has continued for a lifetime. In the early Ming Dynasty, in order to seize the throne, Judy, the prince of Yan, led troops to cross the river south at Sanchahekou and sent troops to Cangzhou to win. So Haijin Town, which was crossing the river at that time, was named "Tianjin". It means that this is the Tianjin beam of the son of heaven, and the ferry that the son of heaven passed through. In the second year of Yongle (1404), the city was built on the west bank of Sancha estuary, and then Tianjinwei was established. When Judy became emperor, he made Beijing his capital, but Beijing's food was still supplied by the south. The water transport at the mouth of Sancha River shows its infinite charm. At that time, the political and economic situation was developing steadily, which was called the prosperous time of "abundant crops, prosperous country and people's security". Tianjin Wei, as the confluence of five tributaries of Haihe River, plays an important role in the economic prosperity of northern China. In all walks of life, the brewing industry is in the ascendant, and the "Royal River" has become a unique advantage of the brewing industry. "Tianjin Wei" is known as "72 land sales". Among them, zhi gu has not only become a grain transshipment terminal and commodity distribution center, but also the center of Tianjin's economy, politics, trade and culture, attracting dignitaries, wealthy families, romantic scholars and literati. "Thousands of streams meet, and the boat meets the four directions" (Zeng Guo's "Du Zhi Gu" in the Ming Dynasty). What a good school of thought: "A thousand years of glory stays in Jidian, and a thousand miles of fragrance goes to the chef." Spectacular scene.

In Tianjin, Zhu Zhu An's Notes on Poems in the Ming Dynasty contains three ancient poems written by an unknown person (Tianjin county annals are Xu Gong). One of them said, "Tian Fei Temple is open to Zhigu, and Jingu and Liu Xia are urging it. Before the brewing was finished, Huang Die of the (rudder) building flew early. " It means that Tian Fei Temple is opposite to zhi gu, and the boats near Liuxia River are crowded. Before the new wine was prepared, the boat people took Huang Die to Bude for wine. Look, even the immortals can't wait, which shows how tempting Zhigu wine is.

Poetry and Wine Culture in Qing Dynasty

Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty visited Xigu. Emperor Qianlong/kloc-came to Tianjin 0/0 times, and the general route was to reach Sanchahekou along the North Canal and enter the Haihe River (or the South Canal). As the only place for sea transportation and water transportation, Emperor Qianlong deeply felt that this place was extremely important and was a "land of geomantic omen". Therefore, the "Royal Wharf" was specially built here as a place for dragon boat parking and maintenance.

In the 13th year of Qianlong (1748), at the beginning of February, Emperor Qianlong, who was only 38 years old, went south from Beijing along the canal with Xiao Wen. On the fourth day of February, he left Tongzhou and came to Tianjin, where he was given a grand reception. The dragon boat on which Emperor Qianlong rode was called "Anfu Building", which was nine feet long and nine feet wide. Empress Hyo-hyun took a boat named "Xiangfeng Boat", which was 80 feet long and 10 feet wide, followed by a huge imperial fleet.

In the thirty-second year of Qianlong (1767), Emperor Qianlong came to Tianjin in late spring. "Continued Tianjin County Records" recorded that Tianjin suffered from continuous floods, and Emperor Qianlong ordered disaster relief. I personally came to the North Canal to check the disaster situation and survey the dikes. And personally wrote two royal poems, namely "Two Xigu Poems" which were circulated in later generations. The poem said: "Xigu is the confluence of the three rivers, and the North-South Canal is clear. When the embankment is ready, it is necessary to be a good road and be prepared. " "The county is clear, and it is a concept to travel and ride a horse in Xigu. After crossing the Yancun levee, the imperial boat has already waited for the river to dry up. " When I returned to Beijing, a large number of officials and people who saw me off sang and cheered along the river. Even Emperor Qianlong was moved by this warm scene. He wrote a poem: "pacify the royal family to return to Haihe River and build a dike for ten miles." I was forced to worry about myself because of Heze, and the next row should be too lazy to listen to him. "The poem" Shiliming "refers to the fact that both sides of the Haihe River pass through the Sancha estuary to the North Canal, and a large number of officials and people are singing and dancing, cheering and seeing off. Sanchahekou area has an indissoluble bond with Emperor Qianlong, who is rich in historical materials. Emperor Qianlong was in his prime when he first came to Tianjin, and he was 84 years old when he came to Tianjin for the tenth time.

Because Zhigu wine is made of wheat, barley and peas, and sorghum is the main raw material, in that era when "millet is full of teeth" and "the poor can hardly make a living" (see "soju" by Cui Xushi), especially in that era when military supplies and civilian use were given to the south of the Yangtze River, making wine with grain was not only opposed by the poor, but also banned by the government. Therefore, Dong (1754), a native of Shandong Plain and an academician of Longjia Xuma, still said in Tianjin Miscellaneous Poems that "it is hard to think about puffer fish entering the market, and the pale wine is full of worries", but there is no trace of Zhigu wine.

Tang Zhijiu, a poet of Qingganjia, gave a brand-new evaluation of Zhigu wine: "The wine quality is transferred from medicinal properties or high grain flavor, which is most suitable for cold nights." High grain is sorghum white dry wine. Tianjin's "Chi Gu Temptation Destiny" has been recognized by poets. Later, the poet Xu Cui even bluntly said in "Hundred Poems of Golden Gate": "The famous wine is also called the Great zhi gu, which is as fragrant as amber and as crisp as white." As time goes on, the amount of alcohol flows more and more, and the fragrance of wine floats farther and farther. "Tianjin Zhilue" said: "At the peak of Tianjin, there were as many as 27 cooking pots, but Zhigu actually accounted for 16." He also said: "The wine industry in Tianjin is still developed, especially in the richest area of Greater zhi gu. The white dry wine produced is of high quality and mellow, and is known as a good wine in the world. "

go abroad

Since then, Zhigu wine has not stopped, and with the passage of time, the amount of alcohol is getting bigger and bigger, and the fragrance of wine is drifting farther and farther. In addition to local sales, we also rely on Shantou gang, Fujian gang, Guangdong gang and Shanghai gang to transport and sell to all parts of the country. In view of the high quality and low price of Zhigu kaoliang liquor, they rushed to Zhigu to hire a brewing technician to build a winery for them. For example, Xiamen businessmen hired Liu Jinkai, a technician with rich wine-making experience, to open Jinyuan Winery in Xiamen, specializing in the production of liquor; Another experienced winemaker, Zhou Hongyi, was hired by Singapore's Zheng Mianyou Wine Shop. Li Fenggui, another liquor maker, was hired by Gan Yuan Hotel. Later, Yi Juyong's manager came to Hong Kong and Singapore to meet local overseas Chinese celebrities, listen to their opinions on wine tasting and make great publicity. Since then, Zhigu wine has gone abroad and floated in Wan Li. Later, they successively entered San Francisco, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and other countries. According to the information provided by a French Chinese, "during the First World War, when French field officers were injured and recuperated, they were only given a cup of" Zhigu Laobaigan ". Zhigu Kaoliang Liquor has a good reputation in the international market, a vast market and rich profits, which has aroused the envy of the Japanese. They want to steal our market with modern management methods, but they can't make sorghum wine and our country doesn't produce sorghum. So on the one hand, they imported sorghum from the northeast, and on the other hand, they came to China to hire winemakers. The Japanese invited Zhigu, the master Cui and the second master Cui Hongxi, and led seven people, including Zhao Yuyuan, Zhai Yushan, Li Enqi, Zhang Shuangxi and Shang Qing, to sign a contract for three years to teach brewing technology in Kobe and actually make wine. These people worked in Japan for six years before returning to China, about 19 14 to 1920.

Sadly, Zhigu Liquor suffered great setbacks in its development. First of all, the warlords scuffle, which makes the output adjustment and the decline of market purchasing power affect the liquor business; Later, it was invaded by Japanese invaders, and food was scarce, making wine was quite difficult. Most of them closed down in the eight-year anti-Japanese war; Then came the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, when Kuomintang officials were corrupt and incompetent, prices soared, foreign wine was dumped in large quantities, and zhi gu wine was dying and on the verge of despair.