The End of "Traffic Age" and the Arrival of "Beautiful commercial times"

From 20 19 to 202 1, the global fashion IP list "Fashion IP 100" and "Global Fashion IP White Paper" were released for three consecutive years.

These three years have witnessed the fastest development of brand co-branding and cross-border cooperation, as well as the emergence of new consumer brands and their good performance through design strength. Moreover, traditional "big" brands at home and abroad are unwilling to "fall behind", catch up, constantly refresh and actively follow the trend.

The first part: Five trends of fashion consumption market.

Combined with some changes in the domestic and international fashion consumer market in the past three years, as well as our research and practice in fashion IP and "fashion design+",we will have the following observations and findings:

From 20 15, Vetements designer served as the creative director of Balenciaga, and in the same year, Adidas Yeezy series was jointly launched with Adidas. 20 18 Kim Jones becomes the artistic director of Dior men's wear. In the same year, Virgil Abloh, a non-white designer, became the first black artistic director in charge of LV menswear. In 2020, matthew williams became the creative director of Givenchy. Recently NIGO announced that he was the creative director of KENZO. It can be seen that it seems to have become a standard for fashion designers and opinion leaders who have the right to talk about trends and strong social media influence to take over the creative departments of established luxury brands or large sports brands, which was unimaginable six years ago and unprecedented in history.

Although they didn't have a matching resume before, it doesn't mean they can't, and the rules of fashion are being quietly broken.

It is worth noting that this situation is rare in China, Japanese, Korean and other enterprises, and there are many reasons worth pondering. I wonder what will happen in the future.

2. Fashion IP joint name, cross-border cooperation swept the world.

In 20 17, the cooperation between Supreme and LV blew up the whole market, and then the co-branding and cross-border cooperation swept the world with devastating potential, covering dozens of industries from high-end to affordable, from clothing to beauty cosmetics, sports, luggage, and even food, drinks, 3C, automobiles and so on.

Louis Vuitton x supreme

According to incomplete statistics, in just 20 19, more than130,000 co-branded products were released worldwide. With the unprecedented outbreak in the past three years, joint cooperation has become a magic weapon for brands to compete for traffic dividends and please young customers, and has entered a "normalization". However, the quality of cooperation is mixed, and problems such as simple and rude cooperation with Logo and cooperation with eye-catching gimmicks are too rampant. The overheating of the market means that it is almost broken.

Although the marginal effect of joint-name cooperation is decreasing, the effect is getting worse, but consumers' demand for joint-name products is not less, and their enthusiasm is not diminished. Demand gives birth to supply, which means that low-quality joint ventures will be ignored and gradually withdraw from the market in the future, and high-quality joint ventures will be more sought after. The era of joint cooperation is far from over. On the contrary, this is just the beginning of the curtain, and the excitement is yet to come.

3.deus ex, a new consumer brand in China with the help of fashion design.

The past three years have also witnessed a concentrated outbreak of new consumer brands in China. In our opinion, these deusexes and budding new consumer brands have the following characteristics: they have the characteristics of "face design, quality function and cost performance"; Accurately grasp the pain points and differences of consumers and accurately reflect them on their own products; The brand narrative is fresh and breakthrough, which meets the psychological needs of consumers in different circles.

To some extent, the founders of these new consumer brands in different industries seem to be radically transforming their own fields in the way of fashion industry, or boldly innovating in their own fields and introducing the common practices and characteristics of fashion industry in order to achieve the purpose of "new brands".

Three years ago, in the preface of the first global fashion IP white paper, we chose the title "In the future, all industries will be fashion industries". Many years ago, someone said that "all consumer goods industries are worth doing again." Does this "newness" also need the help of fashion design?

4. To be fashionable and young, there is still a long way to go to reshape the brand of traditional "old" brands.

For most traditional "time-honored" brands in China, the problem of brand rejuvenation and brand remodeling still has a long way to go. Except for a few brands such as China Li Ning and Bosideng, which are unlikely to be copied again, most of the so-called "old" brands, especially those in the clothing and sports industries, whether China brands or overseas brands, are still struggling to find a way out.

In addition to embracing young people without exception, it also faces the challenge of powerful inertial forces such as mechanism, culture, team and organization, which seems to have entered an infinite cycle.

"The successful experience of the past is becoming an obstacle to the future development." This can really be smarter from century-old stores such as LV, Dior and Balenciaga, as well as brands such as Uniqlo, NIKE and Moncler, and even some new consumer brands, such as how to innovate, how to refresh and reshape brands, how to link new generations of consumers, how to make good products, how to retain, cultivate and replace talents, and how to cooperate with creative teams. But to get back to basics, we must first make a good product.

Nike x beige

5. Domestic products and national trends, with emphasis on "commodities" and "trends"

Since 20 18, with the surge of "national fashion" and "domestic products" (through China Day of New York Fashion Week, China Li Ning, Taiping Bird, Laoganma, Tsingtao Brewery, Phoenix Bicycle, etc.), time-honored brands have brushed their faces one after another to increase brand exposure. The problem in the future is still the continuous innovation and marketing of its core products.

In the long run, domestic products and national power focus on "goods" and "potential", not "country" Consumers pay for feelings temporarily, but occasionally, it is unsustainable in the long run. From the essence of enterprise management, it is still necessary to let consumers pay for "goods" and "fashion". "Old brand+new design" may be an effective way. Doing a good job in products and experiences is the fundamental way.

In addition, the biggest advantage of the time-honored brand lies in its long history, high popularity and good reputation. How to give full play to this advantage and create new products and categories in line with social development and lifestyle evolution through brand extension and with the help of global design, channels and supply chain capabilities, which makes people feel refreshed and willing to buy, requires a higher level and greater innovation.

Uniqlo x KAWS

Medium-length: "Fashion Design+"will penetrate into more industries.

We always believe that fashion IP has positive significance for future business empowerment and is a key link in the "fashion design+"model. From 20 19 to 202 1, * * 60 fashion IPS have been on the fashion IP 100 list for three consecutive years, and 40 are constantly changing. It can be seen that "success" needs to be accumulated and the competition is fierce.

Among the fashion IPs on the list this year, 20 are designer brand fashion IPs created after 20 10, which shows that the industry relies on new forces, talents and efforts.

This year, the number of fashion IPs from French, German, China, Korean, Japanese and other European and Asian countries reached 57, accounting for nearly 60%, surpassing 20 19 for the first time and the British and American countries that will keep ahead in 2020.

In the past three years, the number of fashion IP lists of designers and artists has steadily increased, while the number of fashion IP lists of star managers and opinion leaders has decreased year by year, which shows that talent and diligence are indispensable.

Except Shawn Yue, Liu Wen and CLOT, other designers/artists in China are generally ranked low, so they need to make more efforts in social media influence and commercial appeal.

There are still many people who have misunderstandings about "Fashion Design Plus". "Fashion Design+"is not a brand design, nor is it a tool to enhance the brand's "face value"; It is not a marketing tool, nor a tool to gain attention and earn traffic through cross-border joint names. "Fashion Design+"is a trinity system centered on customer value and oriented by aesthetic design.

It is not only to design new products and develop new series through cooperation with Fashion IP, but also a brand-new model and method to help enterprises in different industries achieve product upgrade, brand upgrade, marketing upgrade and channel upgrade under the background of consumption upgrade in China. Designer cooperation, joint cooperation and IP authorization cooperation are all cooperation areas of "Fashion Design+". For example, LV quickly changed the original deep-rooted brand image, established links with young people, and realized brand realization by means of brand alliance (Louis Vuitton X Supreme), designer cooperation (inviting Off-White designer Virgil Abloh as the artistic director of men's wear) and IP authorized cooperation (Louis Vuitton X NBA/ League of Legends).

Louis Vuitton x NBA (left), Louis Vuitton X League of Legends (right)

In recent years, such cases are prominent: Adidas Yeezy, Nike, Uniqlo, Dior Men's Wear, Balenciaga, Moncler and so on.

Adidas Yeezy

The system of "Fashion Design Plus" can ensure that every designer cooperation, brand joint cooperation and IP authorized cooperation project can achieve greater success probability and ROI (return on investment) in the design and development of new products and series, as well as content creation, image shooting, dissemination and promotion, traffic acquisition and sales transformation.

The essence of "Fashion Design+"is to make good products through the power of fashion IP and design, which is the starting point. Through good products, establish deep links and recognition with consumers, and then build a "five good" brand system. That is: good products, good image, good content, good publicity and promotion, good channels, and finally achieve good sales conversion and repurchase.

Blue bottle (left), hi tea (right)

Especially with the development of the times, "Fashion Design Plus" has been well practiced and applied in the development of new consumer brands and D2C brands at home and abroad. For example: blue bottle,% Arabica, seesaw; In the coffee industry; 3CE, Glossier and Huaxi in the beauty industry; Beredo and summer viewing in perfume and fragrance industry; Wobi Parker and the gentle monster; In the glasses industry; Tea lovers in the tea industry; Fauvism in the home life industry; Dyson and Xiaomi in consumer electronics industry; Inside and outside the clothing industry, inside bananas, Ubras, etc. Based on fashion design, they have created products and shops with "three highs in face value, quality and cost performance" in the fierce competition in the Red Sea market, showing completely different product concepts, design features, functional features, brand image, narrative methods, user interaction and community operation methods from traditional brands.

Beredo (left) and Guan Xia (right)

We believe that with the intensification of competition, Generation Z is increasingly pursuing quality and individuality, and "Fashion Design+"will penetrate into more industries, helping iterative upgrading to make good products and become good brands.

smooth

The second part: Three suggestions from flow management to beautiful management.

We are about to enter 2022, and we are in the technological wave of artificial intelligence, virtual idols, NFT and metauniverse. We are experiencing the era of consumer Internet with "traffic is king" to the era of industrial Internet with "emphasis on individuality and quality", from traffic-oriented business to beautiful business.

Beauty is the driving force of modern business; Well, it is the destination and destination of all businesses. Attracted by beauty; Buy because it is good; Because of beauty, but loyalty. Because of loyalty, there will be repurchase, premium ability and real brand.

In this context, what should we do to create a "beautiful brand" with equal emphasis on value and quality, moderate price and good brand? Here, I would like to make some suggestions for your reference:

1, with fashion IP such as designers as the core resources, attaches great importance to the strategy and insists on cooperation for a long time.

With the cooperation of world-renowned designers and opinion leaders, Nike can almost rival the excavation of NBA players. After years of careful management, it has formed the agglomeration effect of top fashion IP lineups such as Hiroshi Fujiwara, Travis Scott, MMW, G-Dragon, Off-White, sacai, Undercover, Ambush and A-Cold-Wall. The same is true for the cooperation of Moncler Genius. The creative directors of Valentino, such as Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simon Ricardo Roberto Barreto da Rocha, Keni Palace, Craig Green, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Palm Angel, matthew williams, JW Anderson and RIMOWA, have all become collaborators. Without the strategic knowledge and promotion of senior decision makers, it is impossible to achieve a high degree of synergy between product design, manufacturing, marketing and sales channels.

genius

2, pay attention to the cultivation of aesthetic and design ability, set up, cultivate and develop the internal planning and design team.

Behind every ace product, there is a powerful designer. When Apple's iPhone first came out, it was hailed as "the meeting of technology and art at the peak". Jony Ive, a designer who worked with Jobs for many years, contributed a lot to Apple. Behind the success of MUJI is the full participation of designers such as Kenya Hara and naoto fukasawa. Daikanyama Tomoya Bookstore has the cooperation of design companies such as KDA, Tomoko by the pool and Mr. Masuda, not to mention the fashion industries such as luxury goods, fashion, clothing, sports and beauty. Almost every successful enterprise has its own strong team of planners and designers. Mr. Masuda even said that all enterprises in the future will be composed of designers.

For enterprises in non-fashion industries, it is necessary to establish and cultivate a team of development designers within the enterprise, and pay attention to the cultivation and promotion of all employees' aesthetic and design abilities. "Technology+Design" is the standard for a better career in the future.

3. Don't deliberately pursue explosions, and start with "1" to create basic models and evergreen models of the brand.

The hardest part is actually in the beginning Concentrate the resources and capabilities of enterprises, and start from building a good product, which has both "face value, quality and cost performance". After a good product is made, it will be iterated every year to carry out micro-innovation. Let this product become the basic model and evergreen model of the brand, and finally become an explosion in the baptism of time.

All bad "traffic" is short-lived, and there will be no repurchase and premium, just like many brands that are dying; Beautiful "traffic" is almost perfect in business, such as Disneyland, Costco, Starbucks, Apple iPhone stores and so on. We hope that the cooperation with fashion IP will not only bring "traffic" but also bring "beauty".

In this world, there are always people who want to "flow" and people who want to "be beautiful". Therefore, let "flow" belong to "flow" and let "beauty" belong to "beauty".

The American businessman in my heart is both beautiful and good, just like Ding Taifeng. It is not grandstanding, nor is it anxious about traffic. For decades, it has been doing well in products, knowing Zhi Zhi and winning.

Good business does not necessarily depend on "fashion design+",but it must rely on a heart that respects heaven and loves people and a consistent belief.

"Picture | vision china"

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